The ascent of Ama Dablam via the South West Ridge is one of the most beautiful climbs in the Himalaya. What Ama Dablam, at 6812 meters, lacks in height is compensated by technical challenges. Perhaps the trickiest part of the climb is a 15 meter vertical section, referred to as the 'Yellow Tower', just below Camp II which requires use of the jumar and a foot loop.
Ama means mother and Dablam means jewel. Ama Dablam is beautifully adorned by two ridges of snow joined by a hanging glacier that looks like the jewel, just as the traditional necklace worn by Sherpa women with a pendant hanging from it. Not only is the mountain itself magnificent, from the summit of Ama Dablam, there are stunning views of Everest as well as Nuptse, Baruntse and Pumari, Lhotse Shar, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
The exciting trek in to base camp winds through the Sherpa homeland above Thyangboche monastery. The trail to Ama Dablam base camp branches off of the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and follows the original line of ascent on the South West Ridge. The rocky trail becomes increasingly snowy nearing the approach to the summit of Ama Dablam.
We follow the original line of ascent via the southwest ridge, which is technically fairly challenging under normal conditions with enough rock, snow and ice to make it a climb. The amount of snowfall determines the proportions of rock, snow and ice on the trail. The best time for this expedition is in the late autumn season when the weather is cold but fairly predictable. Early spring is also possible. The route is less slippery underfoot during colder weather. There are good camp platforms at strategic points.
Our capable Sherpa climbing team provides technical support and confident leadership.
Advanced Base Camp, 4750m, to Camp I, 5700m (via Advanced Base Camp 5300m)
The view from base camp is incredible: a stream meanders though the grassy meadows; the massif of Ama Dablam towers above; the valley Mt Taweche opens below. From here, the path winds eastward through grassy moraine ridges and scree (often icy) until reaching a broad plateau at 5150m, from where you can see the Mingbo La pass. From the plateau the trail leads north and climbs steeply to a large boulder field. We set up Advanced Base Camp, 5300m just below the bolder field. leers an oblique profile
At the end of the boulder field, slabs traverse deep crevices and to access the proper ridge there is an ascent using fixed ropes. An easy scramble up the east side of the ridge reaches Camp I at 5700m, where there are four or five tent platforms.
Camp I, 5700m to Camp II, 5900m
From the Camp I the trail follows an exposed rocky ridge dotted with towering rock fingers. The ridge is narrow at times and more crevices to be traversed on slabs.
Easy ground is followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the base of the Yellow Tower. To reach Camp II, at 5900m, there is a sharp 15 metre pitch where fixed ropes are used. This is the hardest pitch on the climb. Camp II is extremely exposed, and there is very limited tent space (4 platforms).
Camp II, 5900m to Camp III, 6300m
From Camp II, the route is more ‘mixed’ with snow and iced-up rock. The trail skirts an outcropping of red rocks and drops down to follow a snowy ridge, traversing a gorge between the Grey Tower and the lower rock wall. There are some steep snowy sections of this bottomless snowy ravine to negotiate before the trail reaches the Mushroom Ridge and finally Camp III, 6300m, a sheltered spot on the east side of the ridge.
Camp III, 5900m to the Summit 6856m
The biggest challenges of Summit day are the snowy conditions and altitude. The trail climbs above Camp III on snow and ice to the east side of Ama Dablam. You continue to skirt the hanging glacier, or Dablam, to a small snowfield and then the climb heads directly up snow slopes to the obvious ice crest. Ice fields lead up to a highly exposed and magnificent summit.
Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu
Day 2 : Preparation Day in Kathmandu
Day 3 : Expedition Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 4 : Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakdingma, 2610m
Day 5 : Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar, 3440m
Day 6 : Acclimatization at Namche, 3446m
Day 7 : Trek from Namche to Tengboche Monastery, 3867m
Day 8 : Trek from Thyangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp
Day 9 : Set up Base Camp
Day 10 : 10-24 Climbing period for Ama Dablam
Day 25 : Trek to Namche Bazar
Day 26 : Trek to Lukla
Day 27 : Fly to Kathmandu
Day 28 : Free Day in Kathmandu
Day 29 : Departure
Ama Dablam Expedition 2017 / 2018
Full Board Cost: $ 6000 Per Person
Base Camp Service Cost Only: $ 4000 Per Person
(01 -21) Base Camp Services
(01-24) - Full Board Service
22. Above Base Camp, High Altitude Tent, High energy foods, EP Gas, and Gas burner
23. Wakie takie permit
24. Climbing Sherpa (2 members: 1 Sherpa Ratio)
Why Climb Ama Dablam with Annapurna Foothills?
Single Supplementary US$ 300 per person (Includes single hotel room in Kathmandu and single room/tent on trek)
Return to Kathmandu by Helicopter:
Helicopter flights are available at the climbers own expense. The cost depends upon passenger load and whether the helicopter is already in the Khumbu area or has to come from Kathmandu.
If Luggage Gets Left Behind:
It may not be possible to take all your gear in the helicopter, depending on the number of passengers and weight restrictions.
Besides the fact that at the end of the expedition season, flights out of Lukla are heavily booked, unpredictable weather at the onset of monsoon can result in flights being cancelled. If this happens, priority will be given to passengers rather than their baggage.
If for any reason you get separated from your bags, Annapurna Treks and Expeditions will make every effort to get them to Kathmandu before your departure flight.
If you depart from Nepal before your bags arrive back in Kathmandu, we can get them shipped to you, but this will be at your expense.
In Kathmandu, there will be a detailed briefing and a chance to check if we have all the necessary gear. There are plenty of shops which supply a complete range of excellent quality trekking/climbing equipment.
For the most part, you will only need to carry the items which you require during the day while climbing. Your Sherpa guide will carry loads (including your sleeping bag and a reasonable amount of your personal gear) between the camps.
Destination : Nepal
Duration : 29 Days
Price : US $4000 p/p
Trip Grade : Alpine Grade 5D
Group Size:2 - 12 Persons
Hotel in Kathmandu:5 Nights with Bed & Breakfast
Accommodation during Expedition:All meals in lodges during Trekking & Camping
I did the above mentioned trip in December 2016. The trip was perfectly planned and everything went smoothly. The itinerary allowed for perfect acclimatisation, especially having two nights at Island Peak Base Camp. Tashi, the trekking guide for the trip picked me up at the airport and helped me through…Lukas
A friend and I worked with Annapurna Foothills Treks to be guided trekking on the Annapurna circuit from Besi Sahr over the Thorong La pass to Jomsom, with a guided climb of Chulu West on the way. Our trekking guide Dawa was outstanding all the way to Pisang, and provided…Craig
Our 14 day Poon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp trek, guided by Tashi was an outstanding experience. We enjoyed his local knowledge while making the trip a joy. From the trip's booking to departure from Nepal, all aspects of the trip were carefully organized and well executed-something we appreciated very…Kathy