The summit of Mount Everest is the ultimate mountaineering quest . Annapurna Foothills is all about excellent logistical support which will assure that this extreme challenge is the safest and most rewarding expedition possible. Our vetran Sherpa climbing guide who has led 4 successful expeditions to the summit of Mt. Everest as well as several other 8000-meter giants, will be there to support you all the way to the summit. Your commitment and perserverance and our high standard of logistical support are key factors for success.
Climbers arrive in Kathmandu no later than March 30, 2017.
Climbing Expedition: April 14 to June 1, 2017
Climbers depart Kathmandu no earlier than June 3, 2017.
Getting to Base Camp
While we shake off our jet-lag in Kathmandu, we make sure all our official work is complete, get a briefing from the Ministry of Tourism, and finalize our supplies. There is a good selection of local and international mountaineering equipment and clothing, so it’s a good chance to do some last minute shopping.
Our Everest Expedition begins in Lukla, a 40-minute flight from Kathmandu. Our expedition supplies will be carried to base camp by yaks, zokyos (yak hybrids) and porters, while we set off up the Khumbu Valley at a more leisurely pace, which allows our bodies to acclimatize. This gives us a chance to savour the natural wonder of the Khumbu, and the cultural beauty of the local Sherpa inhabitants.
On the way to EBC, we will stop at Tengboche Monastery to request a special blessing of the lama, who will perform a puja to implore the deities to bless our expedition members and equipment. We accept a scarf, or khata, with the eight lucky Buddhist signs, as a symbol of the lama’s blessing.
By the time we arrive in Everest Base Camp about 8 days later, the Sherpas will have our camp all set up.
A Typical Everest Expedition
There is no fixed plan that works for all climbers and all seasons. Often, climbers will do two “acclimatization rotations” on Everest, prior to the summit bid. That said, the final rotation schedule will be decided by factors such as the weather and the health of our expedition team members. It’s crucial that everyone works as a team and communicates clearly.
The first rotation will begin after a week acclimatizing at Base Camp. We usually go to Camp I, 5950m, for a night, then to Camp II, 6400m for a couple nights, and after tagging Camp III, 7470m (no overnight this time) we return to Camp II for a night and finally back to EBC. We will likely pass by Camp I on successive climbs.
We rest in Base Camp and prepare for the second rotation. We climb to Camp III this time, and stay overnight.
We descend to EBC again to prepare for the summit bid.
Expedition Route Description
Base Camp, 5400m to Camp I, 5900m
We start out from BC before daybreak to maximize the hours before the sun starts heating the glacier. The Khumbu Icefall is a moving glacier, heavy with huge seracs and crevasses. A team of Sherpas called the Icefall Doctors continually maintain a path through this dangerous area with rope and ladders. To minimize the time spent on the Icefall, we avoid any unnecessary stops. The terrain levels out just before Camp I.
Camp I, 5900m to Camp II, 6500m
The route to Camp II crosses the Western Cwm, a broad valley formed by the Khumbu Glacier. There are deep crevasses, some marked with fixed ladders and some hidden by snow bridges. The sun is blinding here, as it reflects off the snow on every side of the valley. If there are no clouds it can be very warm here. Camp II (ABC) is at the foot of the Lhotse face.
Camp II, 6500m to Camp III, 7300m
From Camp II, we start climbing the face of Lhotse, 4th highest peak in the world. It can be a challenge to get a foothold with our crampons in this wall of rock hard blue ice and packed snow. There are lines fixed into the face with screws and anchors, but since there is just one for ascending and one for descending, there can be a traffic jam on this section. We keep clipped into fixed line all the way to Camp III which is on a ledge about halfway up the Lhotse face.
Camp III, 7300m to Camp IV, 7900m
A steep climb from Camp III takes us up to the Yellow Band, a layer of limestone that cuts through these mountains. There are fixed ropes to help us climb the Yellow Band; it is not so difficult, but at this altitude nothing is easy. Most climbers are using oxygen by this point. It can be extremely cold before the sun reaches, especially if there is a wind, but once the sun climbs over Lhotse, it burns through the thin atmosphere.
Next is the Geneva Spur, a short section of rock-ice and snow, which forms the ridge leading onto the South Col, the site of Camp IV. We see the awe-inspiring summit of Mount Everest for the first time when we crest the ridge.
Camp IV, 7900m to Summit, 8850m
At Camp IV we rest, rehydrate and restore our energy in preparation for the Summit push, which usually starts late on the same day that we reach Camp IV. Most of our 10 to 12 hour climb is in the night, as our goal is to reach the summit at around 7 a.m.
From Camp IV, there is a steep triangular face leading to the Balcony, a flat area where we can rest and change over to a new oxygen bottle. Next are the slabs, which are rocks of varying size and steepness. Too little snow renders crampons almost useless on these rocks, and too much snow makes for slogging. After the slabs there is a steep snow slope leading to the South Summit, 500 meters below the true summit. An extremely exposed sharp ridge leads to the Hillary Step, the final rock wall leading to the summit.
The descent from the summit to the South Col takes 3-5 hours. Statistics reveal that this is the most treacherous feat of the Everest Expedition. Besides the effects of altitude, weather and technicalities, the additional factors of elation, fatigue, and perhaps letting ones guard down have resulted in numerous disasters on the descent to the South Col.
Return from Expedition
The schedule allows three days for our hike from EBC back to Lukla. We are accompanied by porters carrying our gear. It’s also possible to leave EBC one day earlier for a slower 4 day trek.
Guests at Base Camp
Except for Everest expedition members, no one is allowed to stay overnight in Base Camp. However, we want to inform you that we welcome family or friends of climbers who are interested in joining your expedition as far as Base Camp. Some of them may even be interested in one of the many treks in Everest Region, or a less challenging peak.
Option Climb Lobuche for Extra Acclimatization
For people with a sufficient time-frame, an excursion to nearby Lobuche Peak, 6119m, is a great way to ensure you are well acclimatized before you start the Mt Everest expedition.
Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu
Day 2 : Preparation Day in Kathmandu
Day 3 : Preparation for Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 4 : Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding , 2640m
Day 5 : Phakding - Namche Bazar, 3446m
Day 6 : Acclimatization at Namche, 3446m
Day 7 : Namche - Tengboche Monastery, 3867m
Day 8 : Tengboche – Pheriche, 4243m
Day 9 : Pheriche – Lobuche, 4930m
Day 10 : Everest Base Camp, 5400m
Day 11 : 11-60 Climbing Period for Mt. Everest
Day 61 : Base Camp – Tengboche, 3800m
Day 62 : Tengboche – Phakding, 2600m
Day 63 : Phakding – Lukla, 2800m
Day 64 : Fly to Kathmandu
Day 65 : Departure from Kathmandu
1. Cargo clearance
2. All related airport / hotel / airport transfers
3. Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B&B basis
4. Kathmandu / Lukla / Kathmandu airfare both for expeditioner and staff
5. Full board service except in Kathmandu
6. All transport of necessary expedition supplies: Lukla / EBC / Lukla (by yaks or porters)
7. Dining tent with Dining table and chairs in EBC and Camp II
8. Kitchen tent and 2 high altitude cooks for EBC and Camp II including equipment, wages and insurance
9. EPI Gas with burner and cooking pot set
10. Gas heaters in the dining tent & solar panel power available at BC
11. First-rate high altitude food
12. Sherpa climbing guide per climber, including equipment, wages and insurance
13. Climbing Permit and all necessary permits
14. Garbage deposit
15. Icefall route maintenance fee
16. Radio walkie-talkie set for climber/Sherpa team, including permit charge
17. Single sleeping tents with closed cell pads for entire expedition
18. 5 cylinders of oxygen per climber with mask and regulator set
19. 3 cylinders of oxygen per climbing Sherpa with mask and regulator set
20. Cost of transporting oxygen to Camp III and IV by Sherpa porter
21. Liaison Officer charges including airfare and insurance
22. Shower tent at EBC
23. Toilet tent at EBC & Camp II
24. Gear tent for storage at EBC & Camp II
25. Gamow Bag up to Camp II
26. Satellite telephone (per minute rates apply)
1. Your travel insurance (Should include helicopter evacuation as well)
2. International air tickets
3. Nepal entry visa ($100)
4. Lunches & dinners in Kathmandu
5. Personal climbing equipment
6. Two sleeping bags, one for Base Camp and one for the higher camps
6. Expenses of personal nature
7. Tips for climbing support staff
Advice for tipping and bonuses for Sherpa staff
Single Supplementary US$ 400 per person for single hotel room in Kathmandu
Option for Climbers Using our Base Camp Service: While you may not require a climbing guide, you may require a Personal Sherpa to help carry your gear and to help on an everyday basis. A Personal Sherpa assistant can be arranged for $5000.
Why Climb Mt. Everest with Annapurna Foothills?
Return to Kathmandu by Helicopter:
At the end of a long expedition, a quick flight by helicopter from Base Camp to Lukla or Kathmandu is quite appealing. You could also trek to Pheriche and fly from there.
Helicopter flights are available at the climbers own expense. The cost depends upon passenger load and whether the helicopter is already in the Khumbu area or has to come from Kathmandu.
If Luggage Gets Left Behind:
It may not be possible to take all your gear in the helicopter, depending on the number of passengers and weight restrictions.
Besides the fact that at the end of the Everest Expedition, flights out of Lukla are heavily booked, unpredictable weather at the onset of monsoon can result in flights being cancelled. If this happens, priority will be given to passengers rather than their baggage.
If for any reason you get separated from your bags, Annapurna Treks and Expeditions will make every effort to get them to Kathmandu before your departure flight.
If you depart from Nepal before your bags arrive back in Kathmandu, we can get them shipped to you, but this will be at your expense.
Oxygen cylinders hold 1800 liters, which at 3 liters/minute lasts 10 hours. One bottle and regulator weighs about 7.3kg total. You will not carry more than one bottle at a time. Most climbers use oxygen from Camps III, at 1 liter/min. for sleeping and 3 liter/min climbing. This means a total of 7200 liters (4 cylinders) are needed for the summit and descent back to Camp III. As a safety precaution, Annapurna Treks and Expedition provides each climber 5 bottles of oxygen for the expedition.
From the Col to the Balcony it takes about 5 hours, which uses about half a bottle. At the Balcony we switch to a full bottle, which should be enough for the 8 hour summit and return to the Col. The half-full bottle left at the Balcony is an emergency back-up.
Extra oxygen bottles are available for $600 each. They must be ordered at the time of booking.
Sherpas will do all of the cooking/melting at Camp I, II, III, and IV.
For the most part, you will only need to carry the items which you require during the day while climbing. Your Sherpa guide will carry loads (including your sleeping bag and a reasonable amount of your personal gear) between the camps.
Each climber/Sherpa team is issued a VHF hand held radio and satellite phone.
Cell phones and Internet
The GSM cell phone network reaches to Everest Base Camp, although in places it may have poor reception. Reasonably priced GSM phones, SIM cards and prepaid calling cards are available in Kathmandu. There are “internet cafes” along the way and even at Base Camp.
Destination : Nepal
Duration : 65 Days
Price : US $35,000 p/p
Trip Grade : Alpine Grade 4E
Group Size:2 - 12 Persons
Hotel in Kathmandu:4 Nights B&B plan (Bed & Breakfast)
Accommodation during Expedition:All meals in lodges during Trekking & Camping
I did the above mentioned trip in December 2016. The trip was perfectly planned and everything went smoothly. The itinerary allowed for perfect acclimatisation, especially having two nights at Island Peak Base Camp. Tashi, the trekking guide for the trip picked me up at the airport and helped me through…Lukas
A friend and I worked with Annapurna Foothills Treks to be guided trekking on the Annapurna circuit from Besi Sahr over the Thorong La pass to Jomsom, with a guided climb of Chulu West on the way. Our trekking guide Dawa was outstanding all the way to Pisang, and provided…Craig
Our 14 day Poon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp trek, guided by Tashi was an outstanding experience. We enjoyed his local knowledge while making the trip a joy. From the trip's booking to departure from Nepal, all aspects of the trip were carefully organized and well executed-something we appreciated very…Kathy