Kyajo Ri, 6186m, is a full-scale expedition climbing peak. It is significantly harder physically and technically than popular trekking peaks like Island Peak or Lobuje East, both of which are a simple one-day ascent to the summit.
Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of the Khumbu Himal ridge that runs north of Namche Bazaar. The Government of Nepal only opened Kyajo Ri peak for trekking in 2002. Until now, this amazing peak has attracted little attention, and still has the feel of an unexplored peak as the route is free of fixed rope and anchors.
The trek into base camp is a pleasure in itself while at the same time providing the necessary acclimatization for the climb. The Kyajo Ri expedition starts with a flight to Lukla. It follows the main "Everest Base Camp Route" as far as Namche Baazar. The trek to base camp is not overly difficult for fit and experienced trekkers, perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Patar trek near Everest Base Camp.
From Namche we leave the main route and head up the Gokyo Valley to the Renjo La, 5388m, a high pass from where we enter the Thame valley. We descend into the valley to Mende, where we leave the main trail and enter the remote valley of Kyajo Drangka, where we set up our Base Camp south of Kyajo Ri.
Kyajo Ri is a difficult expedition with significant technical climbing at high altitude. The typical approach via the SW Ridge requires two more camps above Base Camp. Climbers on this expedition need to be in excellent physical condition and should have basic mountaineering skills. Summit day is very long and tiring.
Kyajo Ri Climb Overview
Base Camp 4500m to Camp I, 5300m: It is reached by crossing rough moraine.
Camp I to Camp II, 5700m: It is not so far but it is strenuous as the glacial terrain is rough with tallus and giant boulders. Camp II is on a snowy col.
Camp II to Summit: Above Camp II there is a belayed climbing using fixed rope on snow slopes of 50° to 55° up to the exposed and pointed summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Summit day is comparable to summit day on Ama Dablam.
Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu
Day 2 : Preparation Day in Kathmandu
Day 3 : Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakdingma, 2610m
Day 4 : Trek to Namche Bazzar, 3441m
Day 5 : Acclimatization day- Trekking around Namche Bazaar
Day 6 : Trek to Khumjung, 3790m
Day 7 : Trek to Dole, 4200m
Day 8 : Trek to Machermo, 4470m
Day 9 : Trek to Gokyo, 4790m
Day 10 : Acclimatization day in Gokyo, 4790m
Day 11 : Cross Renjo La, 5388m to Lungden, 4380m
Day 12 : Trek to Mende, 3740m
Day 13 : Trek to Base Camp, 4550m
Day 14 : Climb to Camp I, 5350m and descend to Base Camp
Day 15 : Rest day at Base Camp
Day 16 : Move to Camp I, 5350m
Day 17 : Rest day at Camp I
Day 18 : Climb to Camp II, 5700m
Day 19 : Summit Kyajo Ri, 6186m
Day 20 : Spare day
Day 21 : Trek back to Base Camp
Day 22 : Trek to Namche
Day 23 : Trek to Lukla
Day 24 : Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 25 : Free day Kathmandu
Day 26 : Departure
|Start Date||End Date||Cost||Status||Booking|
|10 May, 2017||04 June, 2017||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|16 September, 2017||11 October, 2017||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|08 October, 2017||02 November, 2017||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|15 October, 2017||09 November, 2017||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|22 October, 2017||16 November, 2017||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|12 November, 2017||07 December, 2017||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|20 November, 2017||15 December, 2017||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|01 December, 2017||26 December, 2017||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|12 March, 2018||06 April, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|04 April, 2018||29 April, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|10 April, 2018||05 May, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|22 April, 2018||17 May, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|10 May, 2018||04 June, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|16 September, 2018||11 October, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|08 October, 2018||02 November, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|15 October, 2018||09 November, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|22 October, 2018||16 November, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|12 November, 2018||07 December, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|20 November, 2018||15 December, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
|01 December, 2018||26 December, 2018||USD 3600 per person||Available||Book Now|
Kyajo Ri Expedition Equipment and Packing list
This list is only our suggestion for Kyajo Ri Expedition . You will want to adjust the list according to your personal requirements, interests, and season of your trip. Well-seasoned trekkers will surely have their own ideas about what to pack.
Almost all of these items on the list are available in Kathmandu. Kathmandu has a good selection of gear stores where many outdoor brands are available at a reasonable price (eg.North Face, Mountain Hardware, Everest Hardware and Marmot.) It is also possible to save money by renting equipment in Kathmandu.
Please remember that Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expedition provides one porter for every two clients. The weight limit for each porter is 30 kg. That means your duffle bag carried by the porter must not exceed 15 kg (about 33lbs). You will carry a day pack with extra windbreaker, sunscreen, water bottle and items you need on the trail.
Because most items are available in Kathmandu we have marked the items which you should bring from home with an asterisk (*). Some marked items are available, but the exact variety may not be available in Kathmandu.
It is important to be equipped to cope with the extremes in temperature as well as unexpected bad weather. At high altitudes it can be very hot when hiking in the sun and very cold when you stop in the shade and when the temperatures dip at night. What is mentioned on the list is the minimum you should bring. A couple extra T-shirts is a good idea. You may get a chance to wash clothes, socks and underwear on rest days but that is not always dependable.
Personal First Aid kit (we suggest the following items):
Why Climb Kyajo Ri with Annapurna Foothills Treks?
Annapurna Foothills Treks has been running climbing expeditions for over 10 years. Annapurna Foothills Treks reaches for the highest ethical business practices. Our team of mountaineering guides is dynamic, professional, and qualified as instructors.
Why Climb with a Sherpa?
Annapurna Foothills Treks is here to save you the unnecessary expense of going with an expatriate company and an expatriate guide. Our qualified and experienced guides are well able to guide your expedition safely and can provide an accurate cultural perspective as well. Additionally, when you book with Annapurna Foothills Treks, you are supporting the Sherpa community who are dependent on the trekking/climbing industry for their livelihood.
Our climbing guides are dedicated mountaineers and license-holders who always put your safety first. They use harness and ropes below the every peak whether for crevasse danger or steep slopes. Our Sherpa guides are there to fix the rope as well as teach climbers how to fix the rope or set up a belay for glacier travel.
While some people spend unnecessarily to go with a foreign company, others risk their lives to save money by going without a guide. We encourage you to play it safe, and climb with our experienced guides. Our packages are reasonably priced and afford the safety of an experienced guide who will allow you the independence you desire.
To be safe, you dont need shops worth of Karabiners, ice-screws, snow stakes and rock racks- You need a Sherpa guide as a partner, some rope, a few bits of protection, good weather and overriding urge to die of old age.
The routes we suggest are almost always the most straightforward. Under good conditions, none of the routes are challenging for skillful technical alpinist. Safety-conscious amateurs have potential to provide satisfaction and experience without much risk.
Sherpa Support Staff:
Even our support staff are well experienced, so you can look forward to a well organized trip. The relationship we have developed among us over the years makes for a wonderful exchange of ideas, laughter and assistance. Your personal packs will be carried by the porters, saving you time and energy to fully enjoy the surrounding environment.
Each staff member at Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions is insured for their appropriate roles. (Some companies are cutting corners here.)
Logistics for Kyajo Ri:
You can fully enjoy the world of mountains unfettered by the rigors of food preparation, lodging and logistics. Annapurna Foothills Treks provides a wide variety of quality meals to keep climbers healthy and strong. Most of the food is flown in from the Kathmandu.
Annapurna Foothills Treks practices and teaches the Leave-No-Trace principles. Moreover, we are committed to protecting the land and culture of the indigenous people. The mountains are our home and we are unwilling to sacrifice their preservation for human objectives. Annapurna Foothills Treks believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment.
It is really difficult to head straight up to high altitude for the first time even if you follow the recommended 400m-a-day-rule. Walking, let alone climbing, uphill at 5000m is harder than you think. The trek in is a means of acclimatization and getting fit. Our itinerary is planned to allow rational acclimatization and avoid altitude sickness. We should also plan for few extra days as bad weather may affect the designed schedule. This doesnt guarantee the successful ascent but often avoids the disappointment of a cloudy summit day.
Safety for Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing
When travelling in remote mountain regions, uncertainties such as weather, health problems and natural disasters require a certain amount of flexibility. While our goal is to follow the itinerary, that is not our first priority; your safety is always our first priority. Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions request your cooperation to accept the decisions and advice of our trusted and experienced guides if they deem it necessary to change or cancel any part of the itinerary due to safety concerns.
We should also plan for few extra days as bad weather may affect the designed schedule. This doesnt guarantee the successful ascent but often avoids the disappointment of a cloudy summit day.
Kyajo Ri Trip Accommodation:
Annapurna Foothills Treks takes great care to arrange the most comfortable accommodation possible throughout your stay. Accommodation is included in the cost of your package.
Our clients enjoy four nights in the Standard Hotel Shakti , in Kathmandu, before heading into the remote regions and after returning trip. During the trek, eleven nights will be spent in clean and comfortable tea houses/lodges.
Annapurna Foothills Treks strongly recommends that you are adequately protected in terms of insurance. You will need special travel insurance for participation in hazardous activities. We recommend a complete travel insurance policy that covers cancellation, lost baggage, theft, injury, liability, medical treatment, death and expenses. Make sure the insurance covers all the activities that you will be undertaking during your stay in Nepal including trekking and climbing.
If a client requires medical treatment, all hospital expenses, including doctors fees and repatriation costs, are the clients responsibility.
If you are injured and unable to walk in a remote area, a helicopter rescue will be arranged. Annapurna foothills Treks has an agreement in Kathmandu that guarantees payment for helicopter evacuations. We will pay a cash deposit to the helicopter operator and collect the money from you once you have been rescued. Before leaving on the expedition, we will make sure your policy specifically covers mountaineering or alpinism otherwise you may have a difficult time settling the large claim.
Destination : Nepal
Duration : 26 Days
Price : US $3600 p/p
Trip Grade : Alpine Grade 3D
Group Size:2-8 persons
Maximum Height:Kyajo Ri, 6186m
Starting & Ending:Kathmandu
Hotel in Kathmandu:4 Nights B&B plan (Bed & Breakfast)
Accommodation during trek/ climbing:local lodges 11 days (11 breakfasts, 11 lunches, 11 dinners, tea, coffee and twin-share rooms with beds with comfortable foam mattress and pillows included)
Camping services:Meals on the climbing period 9 days camping (breakfast, lunch, dinner, tang juice, fruit, tea and coffee)
I did the above mentioned trip in December 2016. The trip was perfectly planned and everything went smoothly. The itinerary allowed for perfect acclimatisation, especially having two nights at Island Peak Base Camp. Tashi, the trekking guide for the trip picked me up at the airport and helped me through…Lukas
A friend and I worked with Annapurna Foothills Treks to be guided trekking on the Annapurna circuit from Besi Sahr over the Thorong La pass to Jomsom, with a guided climb of Chulu West on the way. Our trekking guide Dawa was outstanding all the way to Pisang, and provided…Craig
Our 14 day Poon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp trek, guided by Tashi was an outstanding experience. We enjoyed his local knowledge while making the trip a joy. From the trip's booking to departure from Nepal, all aspects of the trip were carefully organized and well executed-something we appreciated very…Kathy