Manaslu, 8163m, is recognized as a suitable first-time 8000 meter peak since the classic North-East route follows a relatively straightforward line to the summit. Although Manaslu doesn’t have extremely technical sections, the altitude alone excludes novice climbers. Manaslu poses all the adventure and risk that comes with being one of the highest mountains in the world. That being said, the Northeast aspect of the mountain is accessible due to less objective hazard.
Mt Manaslu, the world's 8th highest peak, is situated in Gorkha District of western Nepal. Annapurna Foothills Treks & Expeditions operate full service, guided expeditions to climb the North-East face of Manaslu in both the pre and post monsoon seasons.
We welcome experienced mountaineers who have already climbed peaks up to at least 6500 meters and are competent on glaciated mountains. Climbing Mt. Manaslu under the leadership of experienced guides defines a perfect opportunity to enter the world of 8000m peaks. Many mountaineers climb Manaslu as training for a future attempt of Mt. Everest.
Our expeditions are led by our expert climbing guides who are familiar with the risks of glaciers and the objective dangers of high peaks, having led successful expeditions to 8000-meter mountains in Nepal and Tibet. As well as gradual acclimatization, safety measures are taken to minimize risks in exposed or dangerous areas.
A skilled support staff of capable Sherpas completes the team. They carry the expedition gear which includes high-quality safety and mountain equipment. They provide the well organized and efficient logistics which is an important component of a successful expedition. Our cooking staff specializes in nutritious, generous and tasty meals to provide the energy that is so vital at high altitudes.
Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions limit the expedition to eight climbers with their support crew in order to maintain our standard of logistical service as well as safety. The Sherpa to climber support ratio is 1:2. However, additional Sherpa support is also an option for climbers who would like assistance to carry their personal gear.
Manaslu is only slightly more technical than Cho Oyu or Shishapangma due to the crevassed glacier, seracs and ice. However, the weather on the North-East route is sometimes unpredictable. Clouds and snowfall increase the risk, and extra care must be taken to avoid crevasses and avalanches.
The Manaslu expedition starts from Arughat Bazar, approximately a 6 hr drive from Kathmandu. This beautiful 8-day trek into base camp gives the mountain a remote feel. We follow trails up the ridges of valleys, through beautiful forests and villages, gradually gaining altitude. The last village before Manaslu Base Camp is Sama Goan. From here we finally get our first clear view of Manaslu. From Sama Gaun, 3400m, it is a long trek up a hill that seems to have endless false crests, that takes us to Manaslu Base Camp.
Safety is our number one priority, and for this, cautious acclimatization is vital. We will spend a few days at Base Camp, 4800m, before setting out on the Manaslu glacier. During the Manaslu expedition we will make several ascents and descents between the camps. The condition of the route is highly affected by weather conditions. Our Sherpas will break the trail through the snow and fix the ropes that are used on much of the route to the summit. Bamboo poles are useful as markers in the snow.
The route from Base Camp to C1, 5700m includes rock scrambles on moraine and dangerous sections of heavily crevassed glacier where we use fixed rope. Camp I sits on a protected shoulder of the Manaslu glacier at the foot of the North Peak, a satellite mountain of Manaslu. The first climb to Camp I usually takes between 2-4 hours. We drop off a load and return to Base Camp the same day.
The most technical section of the climb is between Camp I, 5700m and Camp II, 6400m, as there is a steep wall of seracs which is prone to collapse. We appreciate the safety of the ropes fixed by the Sherpas. It takes about 3-6 hours to climb to the flat area where we set up Camp II.
The route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs and becoming steep as we approach Camp III, 6900m, on a flat saddle below the col. There can be very strong winds at this camp. If conditions are good, Camp III can be reached in less than 3 hours.
The route to Camp IV, 7400m, has some short steep sections of ice and snow. It can take between 4-8 hours, depending on conditions. Camp IV is on an exposed traverse which is the beginning of the summit plateau. It is just a place to rest and eat in preparation for the summit bid, far too windy to stay very long.
The main challenge of the summit is due the altitude and the fact that it is father than it appears. The climb starts out with moderate slopes of snow and some blue ice. After traversing three plateaus there is a steep climb with some exposed sections to reach the true summit.
Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu
Day 2 : Preparation Day in Kathmandu, 1300m
Day 3 : Drive to Gorkha & arrange Porters.Overnight in Camp.
Day 4 : Drive to Gorkha & arrange Porters. Overnight in Camp.
Day 5 : Trek to Khursani Bari. Overnight in Camp
Day 6 : Trek to Macha Khola. Overnight in Camp.
Day 7 : Trek to Jagat, 1250m. Overnight in Camp
Day 8 : Trek to Nyak. Overnight in Camp.
Day 9 : Trek to Prok. Overnight in Camp
Day 10 : Trek to Namru. Overnight in Camp
Day 11 : Trek to Lho, 2250m. Overnight in Camp
Day 12 : Trek to Sama Gaun, 3250m. Overnight in Camp
Day 13 : Trek to Manaslu Base camp
Day 14 : 14-47 Climbing Period. Mt. Manaslu.
Day 48 : Cleaning up Base Camp
Day 49 : Trek back to Sama Gaun. Overnight in Camp.
Day 50 : Trek back to Nyak. Overnight in Camp
Day 51 : Trek back to Jagat. Overnight in Camp
Day 52 : Trek back to Macha Khola. Overnight in Camp
Day 53 : Trek back to Arukhet. Overnight in camp
Day 54 : Trek back to Gorkha. Overnight in Camp
Day 55 : Drive back to Kathmandu
Day 56 : Shopping Day in Kathmandu. And Nepali Culture Show with dinner in the evening
Day 57 : Departure from Nepal
Advice for Summit Bonus and Tips
Single Supplementary US$ 400 per person (Includes single hotel room in Kathmandu , single room/tent on trek, single tent at Base Camp)
Why Climb Mt. Manaslu with Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expedition
Single Supplementary US$ 400 per person for single hotel room in Kathmandu
Option for Climbers Using our Base Camp Service: While you may not require a climbing guide, you may require a Personal Sherpa to help carry your gear and to help on an everyday basis. A Personal Sherpa assistant can be arranged for $5000.
Our package includes 2 bottles of oxygen, which will be pre-placed in the higher camps for you to use. Oxygen cylinders hold 1800 liters, which at 3 liters/minute, last 10 hours. One bottle and regulator weighs about 7.3kg total. You will not carry more than one bottle at a time. Most climbers use oxygen above 7000m, at 1 liter/min. for sleeping and 3 liter/min climbing. This means a total of 3600 liters (2 cylinders) are needed for the summit and descent back to Camp III.
Extra oxygen bottles are available for $600 each. They must be ordered at the time of booking.
We use the latest, most advanced, oxygen mask to ensure efficient delivery less wastage.
We maintain extra oxygen at base camp for medical emergencies. We carry a comprehensive first aid kit throughout the expedition. Our guides are certified in first aid for high altitude. We carry a Gamow bag during the trek up to Advanced Base Camp, where it will be kept during the climb.
Each climber/Sherpa team is issued a VHF hand held radio and satellite phone. The satellite phone can be used for communication during the trek and the expedition for calls or internet. GSM cell phone network is extremely limited in the region.
Sherpas will do all of the cooking/melting at Camp I, II, III, and IV.
For the most part, you will only need to carry the items which you require during the day while climbing. Your Sherpa guide will carry loads (including your sleeping bag and a reasonable amount of your personal gear) between the camps.
Destination : Nepal
Duration : 57 Days
Price : US $7999 p/p
Trip Grade : Alpine Grade 4E
Group Size:2 - 12 Persons
Hotel in Kathmandu:4 Nights B&B plan (Bed & Breakfast)
Accommodation during Expedition:All meals in lodges during Trekking & Camping
I did the above mentioned trip in December 2016. The trip was perfectly planned and everything went smoothly. The itinerary allowed for perfect acclimatisation, especially having two nights at Island Peak Base Camp. Tashi, the trekking guide for the trip picked me up at the airport and helped me through…Lukas
A friend and I worked with Annapurna Foothills Treks to be guided trekking on the Annapurna circuit from Besi Sahr over the Thorong La pass to Jomsom, with a guided climb of Chulu West on the way. Our trekking guide Dawa was outstanding all the way to Pisang, and provided…Craig
Our 14 day Poon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp trek, guided by Tashi was an outstanding experience. We enjoyed his local knowledge while making the trip a joy. From the trip's booking to departure from Nepal, all aspects of the trip were carefully organized and well executed-something we appreciated very…Kathy