Shishapangma Expedition- 40 Days

Shishapangma Expedition

Shishsapangma, 8027m, is an ideal introduction to the world of 8000-meter peaks. Not only is it the lowest of the world’s fourteen 8000-meter peaks, the ascent of Shishapangma via the North-West Face and North Ridge is considered the easiest summit of all. 

Shishapangma’s a massive peak is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world.  Shishapangma is the only 8000-meter peak located entirely in Tibet. Since the region only opened to foreign climbers in 1978, this is relatively a ‘new mountain’. It was first climbed in 1964 by a Tibetan-Chinese expedition, but it wasn’t until 1980 that foreign teams began to set foot on Shishapangma. 

Shishapangma is still a serious challenge as there are always risks associated with 8000-meter peaks like AMS, weather, crevasses and avalanches.  Most expeditions are satisfied with the Central Summit and do not traverse the corniced ridge to the Main Summit as the knife-edged ridge between the Central Summit and the Main Summit can be very unstable.

There are also other routes of ascent; the West, East and even the steep and craggy South Face, but they are technically more demanding.

The Route:

From Chinese Base Camp to ABC, 5600m, is an 18km trek and takes two days to reach the lateral moraine where we set up ABC.  This is actually the true base camp for our climb as we will not return to the Chinese Base camp until we complete the climb.   Annapurna Foothills Treks and expeditions assures that we have comfortable and equipped accommodation - a private tent for every climber, a dining tent, a small tent for the latrine and another tent for the shower and an equipment tent.  From this camp we have a fantastic view up to the end of the glacier right to the summit of Shishapangma.

Here at ABC we string prayer flags in four directions from a rock altar and do the Puja that is obligatory before our expedition sets foot on the mountain. A Sherpa or a local Lama asks forgiveness from the mountain for the holes made by our crampons, ice axes and other sharp items and asks for permission and protection from the Mountain Gods. 

From ABC to Camp I, 6400m:  While we acclimatize in ABC the Sherpas carry tents to establish  Camp I.  The route follows along the lateral moraine of the Shishapangma Glacier.  At about 5790m we spend a night at an interim camp named Depot Camp on the edge of the Glacier.  The sloping scree is not such a convenient camp site. From this point onward we need snow and ice gear so we set out wearing our heavy boots, crampons, harnesses and carrying ice axes.  At about 5800m, at the end of the lateral moraine, we cross the glacier to a flat area with many serac formations and tall ice towers.  This is the only technical climbing on our route to the summit. After that, we climb a "headwall" of 20-34 degrees up to Camp I on the slopes of the Shishapangma massif. It takes about 6 hours to reach Camp I.

From Camp I to Camp II, 7000m: A long gentle snowy slope follows the bottom of a big glacial valley.  On the way we can look right up to the summit of Shishapangma. Another "headwall" of about 30 degrees leads up to a massive plateau where Camp II is set up. The altitude makes even this easy slope taxing so it takes about 4-5 hours to reach Camp II.                         

From Camp II to Camp III, 7400m, we cross a large plateau and then climb an gentle slope. At 7100m we reach another headwall of 28-38 degrees dotted with rocky outcroppings. Camp III sits on a protected rock-crowned flat buttress. The climb takes about 3 hours.

From Camp III to Central Summit, 8007m, we ascend a fairly steep snowfield toward a rock ridge, 7600m, where there is a prominent pointed rock, called the gendarm.   From this rock, the normal route follows the NE ridge.  A final steep section requires about 300m fixed rope up to the Central Summit, 8007m.  We celebrate our victory and enjoy amazing views of Everest, Cho-Oyu, the Tibetan plateau, and endless mountains.  It takes about 7-8 hours to reach the summit, when conditions are favorable.

Few climbers attempt the True Summit, 8027m of Shishapangma.  From the Central Summit there is a brutal double-corniced snow ridge that even in fine weather is tricky and unstable.

The Descent-

We follow the same route to descend to Camp III, spend the night there, another night at ABC and finally back to Chinese Base Camp from where we travel back to Kathmandu by road.

 

Trip Highlights

 

  • experience high altitude with relatively low objective hazard
  • low angle
  • non-technical
  • spend less time and money
  • experience both unique cultures: Tibetan and Nepali
  • less crowded than comparable Cho Oyo
  • skiing or snowboarding is possible


 

Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu

Day 2 : Preparation Day in Kathmandu

Day 3 : Preparation Day in Kathmandu

Day 4 : Drive to Kodari on the Tibetan Border, 2300m

Day 5 : Cross into Tibet and drive to Nyalam, 3750m

Day 6 : Acclimatization hikes around Nyalam

Day 7 : Drive to Tingri, 4300m

Day 8 : Acclimatization Day in Tingri

Day 9 : Drive to Chinese (Everest) Base Camp, 5150m

Day 10 : 10-12 Acclimatization at Base Camp

Day 13 : Walk halfway to advanced base camp, camp at 5200 metres

Day 14 : Walk to ABC at 5600 metres

Day 15 : Rest, training, and organization at advanced base camp

Day 16 : We make the long traverse to a large camping area of Camp I, 6400m, and return to ABC

Day 17 : Rest in ABC

Day 18 : Climb to Camp I, 6400m, and sleep there.

Day 19 : Climb to Camp II, 7000m, on scree or snow to reach the shoulder of the mountain and return to ABC

Day 20 : Rest in ABC

Day 21 : Rest in ABC

Day 22 : Climb to Camp I and sleep there

Day 23 : Climb to Camp II and sleep there

Day 24 : Rest in Camp II

Day 25 : Climb to Camp III and sleep there

Day 26 : 26-36 Summit Attempt and descend to Camp II

Day 37 : Pack up Chinese Base Camp and drive to Tingri

Day 38 : Drive to Kathmandu

Day 39 : Free Day in Kathmandu

Day 40 : Departure from Kathmandu

Cost Include(s)

1. Cargo clearance

2. All related airport / hotel / airport transfers

3. Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B&B twin sharing basis

4. Road transport by private vehicle to Chinese Base Camp both for expeditioners and staff

5. Full board service during entire tour except in Kathmandu

6. All transport of necessary expedition supplies: Chinese Base Camp- Cho Oyo Base camp (by yaks and porters)

7.  Dining tent with Dining table and chairs in Base Camp

8.  Kitchen tent and 2 high altitude cooks for Base Camp including equipment, wages and insurance

9.  EPI Gas with burner and cooking pot set

10. Gas heaters in the dining tent & solar panel power available at BC

11. First-rate high altitude food

12. Sherpa climbing guide per climber, including equipment, wages and insurance

13. Climbing Permit and all necessary permits

14. Garbage deposit

16. Radio walkie-talkie set for climber/Sherpa team, including permit charge

17. Single sleeping tents with closed cell pads for entire expedition

18. 2 cylinders of oxygen per climber with mask and regulator set

29. 1 cylinders of oxygen per climbing Sherpa with mask and regulator set

20. Cost of transporting oxygen to Camp III and IV by Sherpa porter

21. Liaison Officer charges including insurance

22. Shower tent at Base Camp

23. Toilet tent at Base Camp & Camp II

24. Gear tent for storage at Base Camp & Camp II

25. Gamow Bag up to Camp II

26. Satellite telephone (per minute rates apply)

Oxygen

Oxygen cylinders hold 1800 liters, which at 3 liters/minute lasts 10 hours. One bottle and regulator weighs about 7.3kg total. You will not carry more than one bottle at a time. Most climbers use oxygen from Camp III, at 1 liter/min. for sleeping and 3 liter/min climbing. This means a total of 2 cylinders are needed for the summit and descent back to Camp III.

Extra oxygen bottles are available for $600 each.  They must be ordered at the time of booking.  

 


Cost Exclude(s)

1. Your travel insurance (Should include helicopter evacuation as well)

2. International air tickets

3. Nepal entry visa (with re-entry)

4. China Visa fee

4. Lunches & dinners in Kathmandu

5. Personal climbing equipment

6. Two sleeping bags, one for Base Camp and one for the higher camps

6. Expenses of personal nature

7.  Tips for climbing support staff (See Advice for Tips)

 

Why Climb Shishpangma with Annapurna Foothills Treks?

  • Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions a Nepal-based owner operated company who can make your Everest Summit a reality for a reasonable price 
  • It is the perfect option for experienced, confident climbers who want high quality services  without the pricey sophisticated and nonessentials  offered by international operators 
  • Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions does not compromise safety
  • We use only the best quality equipment in the market
  • We take care of details which will help you keep both comfortable and healthy your expedition so that every aspect of your expedition will be a pleasant memory. 
  • One veteran Sherpa climbing guides accompany each climber to allow maximum flexibility.  Each climber can take advantage of a window of good weather and personal climbing pace
  • Our Sherpa Climbing Guides are veterans of multiple 8000 meter summits including Shishapangma
  • Sherpa climbing guides are competent and experienced high altitude climbers who are well able to assess risk and make reliable decisions
  • Our Sherpas will go ahead to prepare the camps allowing you to take the time you need, and focus on climbing rather than logistics 
  • Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions are well resourced and equipped, to ensure the objectives can be met.

The best time to climb Shishapangma is in April/May, before the monsoon or in October the post-monsoon season. The duration of the expeditions is around 40 days.


 

Trip Facts

Destination : Tibet

Duration : 40 Days

Price : US $11000 p/p

Trip Grade : Alpine Grade 3E

Group Size:2 - 12 Persons

Maximum Height:8027m

Activities:Trekking/ Climbing

Transport:By Air

Hotel in Kathmandu:5 Nights B&B plan (Bed & Breakfast)

Accommodation during Expedition:All meals in lodges during Trekking & Camping

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