Ama Dablam Expedition- 29 Days

The ascent of the mighty Mount Ama Dablam via the South West Ridge is one of the most beautiful climbs in the Himalaya. What Ama Dablam, at 6812 meters, lacks in height is compensated by it's technical challenges. Perhaps the trickiest part of the climb is a 15 meter vertical section, referred to as the 'Yellow Tower', just below Camp II which requires use of the jumar and a foot loop.

Ama means mother and Dablam means jewel. Ama Dablam is beautifully adorned by two ridges of snow joined by a hanging glacier that looks like the jewel, just as the traditional  necklace worn by Sherpa women with a pendant hanging from it. Not only is the mountain itself magnificent, from the summit of Ama Dablam, there are stunning views of Everest as well as Nuptse, Baruntse and Pumari, Lhotse Shar, Makalu and Cho Oyu.

The exciting trek in to base camp winds through the Sherpa homeland above Thyangboche monastery. The trail to Ama Dablam base camp branches off of the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and follows the original line of ascent on the South West Ridge. The rocky trail becomes increasingly snowy nearing the approach to the summit of Ama Dablam. 

We follow the original line of ascent via the southwest ridge, which is technically fairly challenging under normal conditions with enough rock, snow and ice to make it a climb. The amount of snowfall determines the proportions of rock, snow and ice on the trail. The best time for this expedition is in the late autumn season when the weather is cold but fairly predictable. Early spring is also possible. The route is less slippery underfoot during colder weather. There are good camp platforms at strategic points. 

Our competent Local Sherpa climbing team provides technical support and confident leadership.

 

Ama Dablam Climbing Route: 

Advanced Base Camp, 4750m, to Camp I, 5700m

The view from base camp is incredible: a stream meanders though the grassy meadows; the massif of Ama Dablam towers above; the valley Mt Taweche opens below. From here, the path winds eastward through grassy moraine ridges and scree (often icy) until reaching a broad plateau at 5150m, from where you can see the Mingbo La pass. From the plateau the trail leads north and climbs steeply to a large boulder field. We set up Advanced Base Camp, 5300m just below the bolder field.  leers an oblique profile

At the end of the boulder field, slabs traverse deep crevices and to access the proper ridge there is an ascent using fixed ropes. An easy scramble up the east side of the ridge reaches Camp I at 5700m, where there are four or five tent platforms.

 

Camp I, 5700m to Camp II, 5900m

From the Camp I the trail follows an exposed rocky ridge dotted with towering rock fingers. The ridge is narrow at times and more crevices to be traversed on slabs.

Easy ground is followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the base of the Yellow Tower. To reach Camp II, at 5900m, there is a sharp 15 metre pitch where fixed ropes are used.  This is the hardest pitch on the climb. Camp II is extremely exposed, and there is very limited tent space (4 platforms).

 

Camp II, 5900m to Summit Ama Dablam 

From Camp II, the route is more ‘mixed’ with snow and iced-up rock. The trail skirts an outcropping of red rocks and drops down to follow a snowy ridge, traversing a gorge between the Grey Tower and the lower rock wall.  There are some steep snowy sections of this bottomless snowy ravine to negotiate before the trail reaches the Mushroom Ridge 6300m, a sheltered spot on the east side of the ridge.  

The biggest challenges of Summit day are the snowy conditions and altitude. The trail climbs above on snow and ice to the east side of Ama Dablam. You continue to skirt the hanging glacier, or Dablam, to a small snowfield and then the climb heads directly up snow slopes to the obvious ice crest. Ice fields lead up to a highly exposed and then meets up with the 40–60 degree snow rib followed by the magnificent summit. Amazing views of Everest ,Nuptse, Baruntse and Pumari, Lhotse Shar, Makalu ,Cho Oyu from the summit awaits. 

 

Planning to climb Mount Ama Dablam in 2020 and 2021 ?

Email us: info@annapurnafoothills.com

 

We have a Guaranteed Departures for Ama Dablam Expediiton. We have few spaces available to join. We are looking  forward to make a small group for our October 16th 2019 Departure. If you are interested in joining the group please let us know. This small group is sure to be a lot of fun and it is a great saving too. We are providing great offers to join this deparutre date as well, $ 6500 USD per person, all inclusive price. 

 

Trip Highlights

 

  • A magnificent mountain in the middle of the Khumbu
  • A magnificent summit view including Nuptse, Baruntse and Pumari, Lhotse Shar, Makalu , Cho Oyu, and Mt. Everest
  • Climbing with our Local Sherpa Guides who has summited Ama Dablam numerous times
  • Technically interesting route to the summit
  • Experience Sherpa culture an people 
  • Well set up camps and logistics during Expedition
  • Climb one of the most stunning mountains in the Himalaya of Nepal. 

Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu

Day 2 : Preparation Day in Kathmandu

Day 3 : Expedition Briefing in Ministry of Tourism

Day 4 : Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakdingma, 2610m/8,561ft

Day 5 : Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar, 3440m/11,284ft

Day 6 : Acclimatization at Namche, 3446m/11,303ft

Day 7 : Trek from Namche to Tengboche Monastery, 3867m/12,684ft

Day 8 : Trek from Thyangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp

Day 9 : Set up Base Camp

Day 10 : 10-24 Climbing period for Ama Dablam

Day 25 : Trek to Namche Bazar

Day 26 : Trek to Lukla

Day 27 : Fly to Kathmandu

Day 28 : Free Day in Kathmandu

Day 29 : Departure

Start Date End Date Cost Status Booking
14 April, 2020 12 May, 2020 US $6500 per person Available
18 October, 2020 15 November, 2020 US $6500 per person Guaranteed
10 November, 2020 08 December, 2020 US $6500 per person Available

Cost Include(s)

 

Ama Dablam Expedition  2020 and 2021 !!

Full Board Cost: $ 5700 Per Person 
 

Base Camp Service Cost Only : $ 3800 Per Person 
              

  1. Airport – Hotel- Airport transportation
  2. 4 nights' Accommodation in standard Hotel Holy Himlaya   in Kathmandu- bed and breakfast basis
  3.  National Park fees and Expedition permit
  4. Camping equipment: sleeping tent and foam mattress, Dining tent, Kitchen tent and Toilet tent
  5. Dining Tables, Chairs and Kitchen equipments
  6. Three meals a day during the trek and camping (Morning tea or coffee, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
  7. Energy Supplies ( Snickers, Mars, Bounty) and Fresh Fruits on the Trek 
  8. Annapurna Foothills Tshirt
  9. Base Camp Manager, Cook, Kitchen boys and Porters for your trip
  10. Camping and Kitchen equipment
  11. Daily wages for Porters and all Nepali staff
  12. Insurance for Porters and all Nepali staff
  13. Equipment for Porters and Nepali staff
  14. Government Liaison officer, his all allowance, food, tent
  15. Nepali culture show with dinner
  16. All the land transportation mentioned in the itinerary
  17. Gamow Bag and emergency oxygen
  18. Satellite phone service (pay calls)
  19. Welcome dinner with Nepali culture show
  20. Celebration Dinner last night in Kathmandu
  21. Solar panel for batteries charges and lights
  22. Garbage Fee
  23. Kathmandu -Lukla - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member

 

(01 -23) Base Camp Services

(01-27) - Full Board Service

 

24. Above Base Camp, High Altitude Tents, High Altitude Meals, EP Gas burner and cooking pot for members  

25. Ama Dablam summiteers Climbing Sherpa (02 Sherpa: 03 Members Ratio) 

26. Walkie Talkie Permit

27. Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope required during the climb. 

 

Cost Exclude(s)

 

  • Your personal equipment for climbing & trekking.
  • Your personal & medical insurance during the expedition.
  • Lunches & dinners in Kathmandu 
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter if required
  • Permits for Client's personal Radio set or Satellite phone

 

Advice for tipping support staffs and Summit bonus for Climbing Sherpa

 

  • USD 100-150 for support staff / helpers who stays at base camp
  • USD 250- 300 for base camp Head Cook 
  • USD 250-400 for Sherpa/Base Camp Guide who manages the base camp 
  • USD 500-800 for Climbing Sherpa who accompanies you up to the top of the summit

Personal Climbing Gears List:

  • Mountaineering/ Climbing Boots 
  • Crampons
  • Helmet
  • Harness 
  • Ice Axe
  • 2 x Screwgate Carabiners ( Lock and Unlock)
  • Descender ( Figure 8, Belay Device)
  • Ascender (Jumar)
  • Prussic Loops
  • 2 x Tape slings

 

Clothing

It is important to be equipped to cope with the extremes in temperature as well as unexpected bad weather.  At high altitudes it can be very hot when hiking in the sun and very cold when you stop in the shade and when the temperatures dip at night.  What is mentioned on the list is the minimum you should bring.  A couple extra T-shirts is a good idea.  You may get a chance to wash clothes, socks and underwear on rest days but that is not always dependable.

 

Upper Body

  •        2-Light weight thermal tops- long sleeved (medium weight merino or equivalent)
  •       3-T shirts or cool-max trekking shirts
  •       1- pull over or jacket (Merino, polartec power-stretch, soft shell, 100 weight fleece)
  •       1-200 weight fleece jacket or prima loft jacket
  •       1-Waterproof shell jacket with hood (lightweight, breathable)
  •       1-Down parka with hood

 

Lower Body

  •        2-Thermal bottoms (merino or polartec powerdry)
  •        1-Fleece or polartech powerstretch pants
  •       1-Light weight hiking trousers
  •       1-Heavy weight hiking trousers (wind proof soft shell for warmth at higher altitude)
  •       1-Hiking shorts (optional)
  •       Waterproof shell pants (lightweight, breathable)
  •       *Under Garments

 

Feet

  •       4- Warm Trekking socks (wool)
  •       *4- Lightweight Cotton Trekking socks
  •       2-Thick wool socks to wear at night in lodges
  •       *Gore-tex waterproof hiking boots- (you should buy at home and break them in before you come)
  •       *Spare laces for hiking boots
  •       Snow Gaiters (optional)
  •       Camp shoes/sandals (crocs are ideal)

 

Hands

  • 1-Lightweight gloves-Polypro
  • 1-Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer (seasonal)
  • 1 pair expedition shell gloves

 

Head

  •        Warm beanie hat
  •        Tubular Headwear (buff)
  •        Sun hat or cap (cap and buff all fit under your hood)
  •        Polarised Sunglasses with UV protection

 

 

Accessories:

  • 1-Daypack (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches) 40 - 50 Liters 
  • 2-Water bottle or camel bag, 1-liter (one with an insulated cover is recommended)
  • large duffle bag (and a lock as the porters will carry this)
  • Stuff sacks, dry bags, garbage bags etc (to organize and waterproof your things inside the duffle bag)
  • Trekking pole set
  • Sleeping bag (- 30’C)
  • Head lamp and spare batteries


Personal First Aid kit (we suggest the following items)

  •         Personal medication
  •         Broad spectrum antibiotics (e.g. Ciprofloxacin)
  •        Diarrhea stopper (e.g. Immodium)
  •        Rehydration salt sachets
  •        Medication for giardiasis (e.g. Tinidazole)
  •        *Blister kit (tiny roll of 3M medical tape/breathable surgical tape)
  •        Antiseptic (iodine or alcohol wipes for cleaning wounds)
  •       *Sterile non-stick absorbent dressing/gauze (for more serious wounds)
  •        *Antibiotic cream (sample size)
  •       10 ibuprofen tablets (anti-inflammatory; pain relief)
  •       4 antihistamine tablets (for bites, allergic reactions; e.g. Benadryl)
  •        throat lozenges
  •        Small Swiss Army knife (which has knife, scissors and tweezers)
  •        Small whistle
  •        Diamox (consult your doctor about this)

 

Toiletries/hygiene:

  • Toothbrush & *paste (preferably biodegradable)
  • Toilet paper
  • Light weight towel and *soap (preferably biodegradable)
  • *Face and body moisturizer (the low humidity at high altitude dries the skin)
  • Feminine hygiene products
  • Small mirror
  • *Deodorants
  • Nail clippers
  •  Wet wipes/ baby wipes (in case there is no warm water for a wash)
  • Antibacterial hand gel
  • Sunscreen (with a high UV factor needed for high altitude )
  • Sun block lip balm (kept in a pocket and regularly applied)

Why Climb Ama Dablam with Annapurna Foothills?

  • Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions a Nepal-based owner operated company who can make your Ama Dablam Summit a reality for a reasonable price
  • Climbers get high quality services without the pricey sophisticated and nonessentials offered by international operators
  • Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions does not compromise safety
  • We use only the best quality equipment in the market
  • We take care of details which will help you keep both comfortable and healthy your expedition so that every aspect of your expedition will be a pleasant memory.
  • One veteran Sherpa climbing guide accompanies each climber to allow maximum flexibility. Each climber can take advantage of a window of good weather and personal climbing pace
  • Our Sherpa Climbing Guides are veterans of multiple 7000 and 8000 meter summits.
  • Our Sherpas will go ahead to prepare the camps allowing you to take the time you need, and focus on climbing rather than logistics

 

Return to Kathmandu by Helicopter:

Helicopter flights are available at the climbers own expense. The cost depends upon passenger load and whether the helicopter is already in the Khumbu area or has to come from Kathmandu.

 

If Luggage Gets Left Behind:

It may not be possible to take all your gear in the helicopter, depending on the number of passengers and weight restrictions.

Besides the fact that at the end of the expedition season, flights out of Lukla are heavily booked, unpredictable weather at the onset of monsoon can result in flights being cancelled. If this happens, priority will be given to passengers rather than their baggage.

If for any reason you get separated from your bags, Annapurna Treks and Expeditions will make every effort to get them to Kathmandu before your departure flight.

If you depart from Nepal before your bags arrive back in Kathmandu, we can get them shipped to you, but this will be at your expense.

 

Personal Gear

In Kathmandu, there will be a detailed briefing and a chance to check if we have all the necessary gear. There are plenty of shops which supply a complete range of excellent quality trekking/climbing equipment.

For the most part, you will only need to carry the items which you require during the day while climbing. Your Sherpa guide will carry loads (including your sleeping bag and a reasonable amount of your personal gear) between the camps.

Trip Facts

Destination : Nepal

Duration : 29 Days

Price : US $6500 p/p

Trip Grade : Very Strenuous

Group Size:2 - 6 Climbers

Maximum Height:6812m

Activities:Trekking, Camping, Climbing

Starting:Kathmandu

Ending:Kathmandu

Hotel in Kathmandu:5 Nights with Bed & Breakfast

Accommodation during Expedition:All meals in lodges during Trekking & Camping

Best Season:March- May and October- December

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