About Island Peak Climbing
Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189m, is an interesting and challenging climb in the Khumbu Himalaya and therefore within reach of the average fit person who wants to have a genuine high altitude climbing experience on snow and ice. Previous climbing experience will be helpful as our highly experienced Sherpa climbing guides will also provide training and practice of relevant skills such as using jumor, abseiling and mainly crossing the ladders section on Island Peak. Though if you have knowledge and experience of rock and ice climbing, already done high altitude trekking, then it will be very beneficial for your Island Peak Expedition.
Our Island Peak Climbing combines the classic trek to the Everest Base Camp and climb of a stunning 6000m peak. Island Peak Base Camp is easily accessible from Chhukung village, just off the Everest Base Camp trail. The climb segment starts from the Chhukung valley, and takes only 2 Nights and 3 Days period to do the climb. Island Peak Climbing begins at Lukla and follows the Everest Base Camp Trekking Trail up the Dudh Kosi valley through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, Gorak Shep, Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar. This trekking journey to Everest Base Camp is already an extraordinary experience; there are beautiful pine and rhododendron forests, monasteries, amazing trekking trails, magnificent views of Khumbu Himalaya such as Everest, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Pumori to name a few and of course the heart and soul of Khumbu i.e. Sherpa people, thier culture, work and hospitality. By now we are much more acclimatized for the cold weather and altitude on Island Peak. Returning to Dingboche, the trail branches off into the Chhukung valley where our next adventure begins.
From Chhukung village, the trail follows the moraine of the massive Lhotse Glacier, then the Imja Tso Khola (river) to Island Peak Base Camp at5100m. We spend time hiking around base camp for acclimatization and learning climbing skills required for Island Peak. There are slabs and boulders to clamber over to reach Island PeakHigh Camp 5500m where we will spend our second night at tents before we approach for our summit push of Island Peak.
After high camp there are more rocks and scree at first, then we get to the Crampon Point, where we put on our harness, climbing boots and other climbing gears. Couple of places, we need to walk on the Ladders to cross the Crevasses section. After the Crevasses section then walking on flat glacier section before we get to the foothill of the Ice headwall. There is a 300 meter headwall of 45 degree snow slopes leading to the exposed summit ridge of Island Peak. From the summit, the incredible view pf Himalaya includes Nuptse, 7879m, Lhotse, 8501m, Lhotse Middle Peak, 8419m, and the unclimbed Lhotse Shar, 8383m. To the east, the perfect pyramid of Makalu, 8475m and the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, and to the south, Baruntse and alluring Ama Dablam.
The best season for climbing Island Peak in Nepal is from March to May (Spring) and from September to November (Autumn). However, the winter is also a great time to climb if you are well prepared for the cold weather. In the crisp and cold month of December, the views of mountains are crystal clear and there are fewer trekkers around. The duration of Island Peak Climbing can be lengthened or shortened according to your preference. Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expedition will arrange every detail of your Island Peak Expedition; lodge accommodation, guides, food, as well as all the necessary climbing and camping equipment.
We offer various routes and itinerary options to climb Island Peak in Nepal.
- Island Peak Climbing 5 Days (Chukung - Island Peak - Chhukung)
- Gokyo Cho La Pass Island Peak Climbing 23 Days
- Three High Passes and Island Peak Climb 25 Days
- Three Peak in Everest Region: Lobuche, Pokalde and Island Peak 27 Days
- Mera and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Labtsa Pass 25 Days
Planning to climb Island Peak (Imja Tse) in 2022 and 2023
Guaranteed Departures. We are preparing for our Autumn 2022 and 2023 dates and groups for Island Peak Expediiton. Please get in touch for further details.