Watch Trip Video
  • Duration:24 Nights 25 Days
  • Max. Altitude: 6476m
  • Group Size: 2-8
  • Activity: Trekking & Climbing
  • Pick Up: TIA Airport

About Mera and Island Peak Climbing

Mera Peak and Island Peak via Amphu Labsta Pass (5700m), is the ultimate trekking and climbing challenge in the Himalaya of Nepal. Even reaching the top of one of these fantastic 6000m trekking peaks is a great achievement. This expedition includes two 6000+meter peaks and one challenging high pass. This exceptional high altitude adventure is packed with an amazing variety of mountains and wilderness valleys, forests and grasslands, lodges and camping: a complete Khumbu trekking and climbing experience for adventure lovers.

Even though the majority of this expedition is straightforward climbing, it is graded strenuous as it includes two incredible peaks over 6000 meters, one technically challenging pass, and seven consecutive nights at elevations over 5100 meters. At this altitude, even very basic trails can be a test of endurance. Our Mera Peak and Island peak via Amphu Labsta Pass expedition route has been carefully planned and paced. ‘Rest days’ allow time for the body to adjust to the altitude while you practice mountaineering skills with your Sherpa climbing guides to prepare you for the next objective.

Our Mera and Island Peak Expedition starts with climbing the least technical but highest, Mera Peak first, followed by the rather tricky Amphu Labsta Pass and then a moderately difficult Island Peak, with its exposed summit.

Mera Peak, standing at 6476m, is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. Neither too steep nor technically difficult, Mera Peak is a great introductory climb to practice the basics of high altitude climbing skills. This route avoids the steep climb to Zatrwa La Pass by making a loop to the south through a beautiful untraveled part of the country and joins the at Kote, allowing time for gradual acclimatization. We fly to Lukla, 2820m, and trek south to Surke, 2290m, the same day. We follow the Inkhu River right up to the Mera Peak Base Camp, at the foot of Mera’s north face. The route to high camp goes via Mera La Pass. Only the last 30 or 40 meters to the summit require the use of fixed lines. From the summit you get magnificent views of the over-8000-meter-mountains including Mt. Everest, 8848m, Mt. Lhotse, 8516m, Mt. Cho Oyu, 8201m, Mt. Makalu, 8463m, Mt. Kanchenjunga, 8586m, to name a few.

Descending from the summit of Mera, the route turns east at the Mera La, into the Upper Hongu Valley. As we follow the valley northward, the rock face of Chamlang towers to the east and Lhotse and Everest are visible directly in front of us. Once we reach the sacred Panch Pokhari Lakes, we are about to tackle the toughest objective of the expedition, the Amphu Labsta pass (5700m). The succession of ice steps up to the rocky crest call for a fixed line. From the top, we have to make a 35 meter abseil to reach fixed lines for the next 300 meters of steep switchback descent on snow and rock.

After the pass, we re-enter the Khumbu valley which, after so many days in a wilderness, seems busier than before. We will set up a base camp in the Imja Valley and prepare to summit Island Peak, 6189m, which lies close to the imposing south face of Lhotse. We will march towards Island Peak via the standard route, directly underneath the imposing south west face of Lhotse (fourth highest mountain in the world). Though lower in altitude than Mera Peak, Island Peak is slightly more challenging. The ascent involves an easy scramble up to a rock ridge and then onto a glacier where fixed lines are used to climb the 45 degree snow slopes leading to the exposed summit ridge. The fabulous summit views include Lhotse, Nuptse, Mt. Makalu and Ama Dablam. follow the Chhukkung Valley and join the Everest Base Camp trail at Dingboche, one of many Sherpa settlements we pass through on our return to Lukla.

The best season for Mera and Island Peak Climbing is from March to May (Spring) and from September to November (Autumn). However, the winter is also a great time to climb if you are well prepared for the cold weather. In the crisp and cold month of December, the views of the mountains are crystal clear and there are fewer trekkers around. The duration of the Mera and Island Peak Climbing can be lengthened or shortened according to your preferences. Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expedition will arrange every detail of your Mera and Island Peak Expedition (lodge accommodation, guides, food, as well as all the necessary climbing and camping equipment during the trip).

Planning to climb Mera and Island Peak Climbing in 2023 and 2024

Guaranteed Departures. We are preparing for our Autumn 2023 and Spring and Autumn 2024 dates and groups for Mera and Island Peak Expediiton.
Please, get in touch for further details and booking your spot.

 

Highlights of Mera and Island Peak Climbing

  • climb two of the finest Treking Peaks in Khumbu region; Mera Peak and Island Peak
  • crossing Amphu Labtsa Pass is a challenging and beautiful expereince
  • trekking in the remote Hinku and Khumbu valley
  • excellent Trekking and Climbing experience in the Himalaya of Nepal.
  • enhance and test your mountaineering skills with this challenging expereicne
  • well set up support and logistics at camps during the camping period
  • trek and climb with our certified and experienced Sherpa Climbing Guides

Itinerary

Expand All Collapse All
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu 1,300 m/4,265 ft

Flying to Kathmandu is in itself an exciting and memorable experience. On a clear day, you will get a panoramic view of the snow-capped towering peaks. After completing the visa formalities in airport, collect your luggage downstairs. As you exit the airport terminal, you will be welcomed by one of our representatives carrying your name on our company’s’ signboard, Annapurna Foothills Treks & Expedition. Moving forward, you’ll be taken to your hotel in our private tourist vehicle. Once you reach at hotel, you’ll be welcomed by them as well and after that you can relax in your room.

  • Hotel

The Managing Director of our company will be there to meet you in the hotel and provide more information about the expedition. Your dues must be cleared before we proceed on the trip. We will finalize paperwork-permit for your trip and make a final check of your climbing equipment. In case you need additional trekking equipment, you will have a chance to buy it today. Sightseeing tours of Kathmandu Valley are also an option.

  • Breakfast and Welcome Dinner
  • Hotel

The early morning flight to the Tenzing-Hillary Airport, Lukla, takes only 40-minutes. It is an amazing flight as the mountains seem to tower around the plane. We land in a valley surrounded by high mountains peaks. Our climbing team will be at the airport waiting for us and without any delay, we'll commence the trek. Beginning at Lukla and then descending to Paiya, is good for acclimatization. The trail leads through forests down to the traditional villages of Surke and Pakhepani along with rhododendron forests on the way. Also, you'll encounter a great view of Kongde Ri, Khatang, Tang Ragi Tu and other 7000+ meter peaks from Paiya.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

From Paiya, there is a short descent to a wooden bridge which we cross and make a steep and slippery ascent to Kari La Pass, 3145m. A narrow trail winds down through the rhododendron and bamboo forest. The scene will be beautiful with Dudhkoshi River valley below and the Dudh Kund Himal in the background. Pangoma is a farming and trading village.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

The rocky trail descends to a rhododendron forest. Mani walls mark the trail as we trek over hills and ridges. The south face of Mera Peak, 6064m and Naulekh Peak towers ahead of us as we go through pine and rhododendron forests with several switchbacks and finally descend steeply to Sibuche.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

Today, our trail starts angling towards the north with plenty of ascents and descents through rhododendron and bamboo forest. We cross the crystal clear Hinku (Inkhu) Khola on suspension bridge several times and most probably, some wildlife like the sloth bear, wild cats and a variety of birds might be seen from here.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

After having breakfast, we start out trekking on narrow trails through bamboo and pine forests. As we follow the river, the Hinku Valley widens and we enjoy the view of Mera Peak ahead of us. Beyond Tashing Dingma, there are few tea houses where we will have our lunch. The trail follows on the ridge above the river all the way to Kothe.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner

Today, we ascend gradually following the Hinku River. We will be surrounded by Mera Peak and other white giants throught the trail. On the ridge above the river are pastures. Gondishung is a summer herders’ settlement where there is an ancient monastery. The trees become sparser as we will be nearing the snow line. Thangnak is a summer grazing area.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

The trail crosses boulders left by Sabai Tsho, the glacial lake which is close to the trail north of Thangnak. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to the grassy Dig Kharka, which offers exclusive view of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to Khare. From a ridge above Khare, there is an excellent view of the route we will take to Mera Peak.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

Today we take a rest day at Khare for proper acclimatization. To acclimatize, we spend the day exploring and practicing climbing techniques with our guide at Khare. If we feel strong enough with sound health, we can trek as far as Mera La and return back.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

We ascend for three hours over a boulder strewn path up to the glacier. There is a short climb to a glacial plateau leading up to Mera La. The views from the pass are spectacular. From the pass we descend about 100m towards the Honggu side and set up our base camp on the rocky moraine below the ice.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Camping

We make the steep ascent to Mera La and continue up the rock-strewn north flank to a rocky outcropping where we set up high camp. From High Camp, we enjoy the glorious views of Mt. Everest, Makalu, Kanchanjunga, Cho Oyu, and south face of Lotshe, Nuptse, Chamlang and Baruntse. We can also see most of the route to the summit.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Camping

Today, we have an alpine start before daybreak as the climb usually takes 5-6 hours. We put on crampons and rope together for the steep climb to the summit. There are a number of crevasses. So, we will need to take precaution if there has been recent snowfall. The is a short sharp scramble up an ice-wall to the summit is well rewarded with spectacular views of Mt. Cho Oyu, 8201m, Lhotse, 8516m, Everest, 8848m, Makalu , 8463m, Pumori, 7161m, Lobuche, 6145m and many others. After reaching the summit and enjoying amazing views over the Himalaya, we have a short abseil before the long descent back to High camp. We will rest for 45 minutes before descending back down to our campsite in the Hinku Valley at Kongma Dingma. This is a very long but satisfying day 

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Camping

There is no guarantee that there will be favorable weather for scheduled summit day. In case we are unable to summit Mera Peak on scheduled date due to weather or any other reason like someone in the group having altitude related problems, this extra day gives us some flexibility. 

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

After having breakfast, we go further up the spectacular high-altitude valley following the bank of the Hongu river. The Amphu Labtsa appears in front with Lhotse and the Everest group beyond and Ama Dablam just to the left. We can have an excellent view of Amphu Labtsa from the campsite and it is encircled by the beautiful mountains and spends the night in tent.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

Below the Amphu Labtsu is about 5,500m. We have a relaxed afternoon as our Sherpa team prepares the route over the pass and spend the night in tent.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

This is the most involved and serious mountaineering day of the trip. The approach to the pass is over glacier and around stunning ice flutings and formations and presents no real difficulty at first.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

The path climbs steeply toward the west and then turns north, following the valley along the moraine from the Lhotse glacier. We continue a short yet pleasant walk along the river side which leads to Big-Rock. From this point a 40 minute climb will take us to Island Peak Base Camp where we will set up camp and relax for the rest of the da

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

We have to start early in the morning to climb through the rock channel. Although it is not difficult, there are many short rock steps to be crossed before you come across the other side of the channel. Then the trail leads to the ridge line where you traverse the snout of the summit glacier. You will need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses, which leads with little difficulty, to a 100 m snow and ice slope (40-45°) on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge will take you to the top. After enjoying the summit view, you will descend all the way to Chhukung, 4710m. 

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

Today, we trek to Tengboche gradually. We trek down to Dingboche and again pass through the Pangboche village, the same trail we used on the way up. The trail leads down to a river. After crossing the river, we walk for an hour up through the forest and reach Tengboche.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

From Tengboche, we descend to the bridge over the Dudh Kosi at Phunki Tenga, where there are water driven prayer wheels, before making our way to Namche. 

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

Boosted by all our new red blood cells, we rush down the footpath toward Sagarmatha National Park gate, in Jorsale. Later, Lukla's footpath leads us back to the first villages we saw two weeks ago: Gumila, Phakdingma, and Choplung. The high peaks disappear behind the hills. This last evening in the mountains is the ideal opportunity for a farewell party with your sherpa guides and porters, and a good chance to sample some chhyang, try Nepali and Sherpa dance and look back on the memorable trekking experiences. The staff will be hoping for some precious and well deserved tips.

  • Breakfast/Lunch & Dinner
  • Tea House/ Lodge

You take an early morning flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu .

  • Breakfast
  • Hotel

After breakfast, there will be free time for souvenir shopping and other independent activities. 

  • Breakfast
  • Hotel

We will accompany you to the International Airport in time to board your flight.

  • Breakfast

What's Included

  • Transfer from Airport – Hotel – Airport: Car, Van, Hi-ace or Coaster in a private vehicle
  • Authentic Nepali welcome dinner with Live Nepalese Cultural Program
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu, Standard Hotel Four nights on Twin share Bed and Breakfast Basis
  • Accommodation during Trek; local lodges 12 nights (twin-share rooms, beds with comfortable foam mattress and pillows)
  • All standard meals (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) at Tea Houses during the trekking period
  • Accommodation during Camping: 8 nights at well Tented Camps with necessary staffs
  • All Camping Equipment: sleeping tents/mattresses, kitchen tent, kitchen equipment
  • All standard meals (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) with Boiled Water, Tea / Coffee at Camps during the climbing period
  • English speaking experienced and certified Sherpa Guide (Govt. Trained/License Holder).
  • One Sherpa Assistant Guide if there is more than 4 climbers in a group
  • Porters: 1 Trekker: 1 Porter
  • Trekking Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, food and accommodation.
  • Personal insurance for Nepalese staff
  • Annapurna Foothill’s Duffle bag for Trekking
  • Annapurna Foothill's T-shirt
  • First aid medicine kit
  • Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Permit
  • Barun and Sagarmatha National Park Fees, TIMS permits & all required permits or Official Documentation
  • Round-Trip airfare between Kathmandu and Lukla (Airport Tax Included)
  • Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu Excess baggage fees
  • All government and local taxes
  • Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing certificates issued from the respective body of Nepal Government
  • Climbing rope, Ice screws, Snow bar
  • Energy Supplies Snickers, Mars, Bounty etc
  • Supplementary Oxygen Cylinder with mask regulator or Gamow Bag (A life saving device in case of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness)
  • Thuraya Satellite phone for logistical, safety and personal emergency use only
  • Pulse Oximeter (Oxygen Meter) to check your pulse and oxygen saturation and heart rate to monitor your health condition throughout your trip
  • Assistance in arranging Helicopter rescue operations (24/7) in case of complicated health conditions or any other emergencies (should be covered by your Travel Insurance)

Personal Climbing Gears includes:

  • Mountaineering/ Climbing Boots
  • Crampons
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Ice Axe
  • 2 x Screwgate Carabiners ( Lock and UnLock)
  • Descender ( Figure 8, Belay Device)
  • Ascender (Jumar)
  • Prussic Loops
  • 2 x Tape slings

What’s Excluded

  • Your Personal Travel Insurance.
  • Nepal Entry Visa Fee.
  • Lunch & Dinner in cities - allow $ 10 to 14 for per meal in Tourist restaurants.
  • Beverages (drinks, mineral water, boiled water and beer).
  • Tips for guide, porters and driver (customary).
  • Any personal expenses not mentioned in above services.
  • Additional night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early return from Trek (due to any reason) than the planned itinerary.

Departure Dates

FromToStatusPrice  
Start Date18 Apr, 2023End Date12 May, 2023AvailableUS$ 3690

Departure Note:

Guaranteed - We already have trekkers booked for those dates and you can join the group.

Available - The date is available to book and once you confirm your trip it will be guaranteed.

Limited - The departure date is filling fast and only limited seats are available to join.

Closed - The Trip cannot be booked on that specific date. Contact us for customized dates.
 

The departure dates are your arrival dates in Nepal.

We have set dates for departure to the Mera and Island Peaks. So, pick your preferable date and let the adventure begin.

If the date you prefer to do this trip is not listed on our departure dates then you can contact us directly to book the trip on your own desired date.

We have listed the price up to 08 trekkers at maximum. If you are more than 08 trekkers, then please feel free to contact us for amazing discounted group price and further booking process.

Private Trips to Mera and Island Peaks is also possible. Contact us to design your own private trips with you loved ones.

Solo Trips: Single trekkers are always welcome to join the climb. On your arrival at Kathmandu, you’ll have a single room in Kathmandu Hotel as per your requirement and have to share a room at the local teahouses during the trekking.

Useful Info

Mera and Island Peak Climbing Packing List:

“There's no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.” Alfred Wainwright

Are you planning your dream trip to the Himalaya of Nepal? Make sure you have packed well for your hiking, trekking and climbing experiences in Nepal. The time period of your visit also determines your packing list. The best trekking seasons for beginning your Mera and Island Peak Climbing are spring and autumn. During these seasons, maximum flow of trekkers can be witnessed. Weather during spring (March – May) and autumn (September – November) are likely to be mild with clear blue sky and outstanding mountain views. But nights can get freezing cold at higher elevation. So, packing appropriate clothing, gear, and equipments for your Mera and Island Peak Expedition is a must for lifetime memorable trekking and climbing experience in Everest region of Nepal.

A strategically way of packing will be keeping in mind that your stuffs will be packed in two bags. One will be the daypack that you carry every day on your trek. Pack your daypack as light as possible by carrying only the essentials so that you can relish your moments in wilderness freely. Pack anything you may need each day during your hike in your daypack. Other bag will be your duffle bag which will be carried by your Porter from the very beginning of your trek till the end.

 

Upper Body:

  • Warm beanie hat
  • Tubular Headwear (buff)
  • Sun Hat or Cap (cap and buff all fit under your hood)
  • Polarized Sunglasses with UV protection
  • Headlamp (Black Diamond / Petzl) with spare batteries
  • Sunscreen with factor 50+
  • Upper Body (Core body):
  • 3 Light and trekking weight thermal tops
  • 3 T-shirts or cool-max trekking shirts
  • 1 Fleece Jacket or pull over (Merino, soft shell)
  • 1 Waterproof shell jacket with hood (lightweight, breathable)
  • 1 Down Jacket

Lower Body:

  • 2 Thermal base layers (merino or polartec power dry)
  • 2 Pairs trekking pants, preferably that zip on/off at the knees so they double as shorts.
  • 1 Heavy weight hiking trousers (wind proof soft shell for warmth at higher altitude)
  • 1 Waterproof/ Rain pants
  • 2 Light Hiking shorts
  • 2 Fleece Pants
  • 4 Under wears (merino)

Hands:

  • 1 Lightweight gloves or liner gloves
  • 1 Pair shell gloves (Gore-Tex)
  • 1 Waterproof outer glove

Feet:

  • 3 Warm Trekking socks (smart wool)
  • 3 Pairs of liner socks
  • 2 Pairs of thick/ warm socks
  • 2 Thick wool socks to wear at night in lodges
  • Trekking Boots (waterproof, ankle support with rigid sole)
  • Lightweight Rubber Shoes / Trainers / Trail Runner to wear at the Tea Houses

Accessories:

  • 1 Daypack (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches) 40 - 50 Liters
  • 2 Water bottle or camel bag, 1-liter (one with an insulated cover is recommended)
  • Large duffle bag (and a lock as the porters will carry this)
  • A pair of adjustable Trekking Pole
  • Camera with extra battery
  • Sleeping bag (- 15 C depending upon trips)
  • Sleeping Bag liner
  • Ear Plugs
  • Portable Solar Charger
  • Smart Trekking Watch

Personal First Aid Kit:

Please do note that our trekking guides will be too carrying the first aid kit with them especially for the guests and the entire team as a whole. Still, we suggest the following items to be carried with you while trekking in the Himalaya of Nepal.

  • Personal Medication
  • Diarrhea Stopper (e.g. Imodium)
  • Paracetamol Tablets
  • Small Swiss Army knife (which has knife, scissors and tweezers)
  • Diamox for altitude (consult your doctor about this)
  • Water Purification tablets or drops
  • Blister kit / Zinc Tape
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Dressing Gauze
  • Antibiotic Cream

Client Reviews