About Mera and Island Peak Climbing
Mera Peak and Island Peak via Amphu Labsta Pass (5700m), is the ultimate trekking and climbing challenge in the Himalaya of Nepal. Even reaching the top of one of these fantastic 6000m trekking peaks is a great achievement. This expedition includes two 6000+meter peaks and one challenging high pass. This exceptional high altitude adventure is packed with an amazing variety of mountains and wilderness valleys, forests and grasslands, lodges and camping: a complete Khumbu trekking and climbing experience for adventure lovers.
Even though the majority of this expedition is straightforward trekking, it is graded strenuous as it includes two incredible peaks over 6000 meters, one technically challenging pass, and seven consecutive nights at elevations over 5100 meters. At this altitude, even very basic trails can be a test of endurance. Our Mera Peak and Island peak via Amphu Labsta Pass expedition route has been carefully planned and paced. ‘Rest days’ allow time for the body to adjust to the altitude while you practice mountaineering skills with your Sherpa climbing guide to prepare you for the next objective.
Our Mera and Island Peak Expedition starts with climbing the least technical but highest, Mera Peak first, followed by the rather tricky Amphu Labsta Pass and then a moderately difficult Island Peak, with its exposed summit.
Mera Peak, standing at 6476m, is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. Neither too steep nor technically difficult, Mera Peak is a great introductory climb to practice the basics of high altitude climbing skills. This route avoids the steep climb to Zatrwa La Pass by making a loop to the south through a beautiful untraveled part of the country and joins the at Kote, allowing time for gradual acclimatization. We fly to Lukla, 2820m, and trek south to Surke, 2290m, the same day. We follow the Inkhu River right up to the Mera Peak Base Camp, at the foot of Mera’s north face. The route to high camp goes via Mera La Pass. Only the last 30 or 40 meters to the summit require the use of fixed lines. From the summit you get magnificent views of the over-8000-meter-mountains including Mt. Everest, 8848m, Mt. Lhotse, 8516m, Mt. Cho Oyu, 8201m, Mt. Makalu, 8463m, Mt. Kanchenjunga, 8586m, to name a few.
Descending from the summit of Mera, the route turns east at the Mera La, into the Upper Hongu Valley. As we follow the valley northward, the rock face of Chamlang towers to the east and Lhotse and Everest are visible directly in front of us. Once we reach the sacred Panch Pokhri Lakes, we are about to tackle the toughest objective of the expedition, the Amphu Labsta pass, 5700m. The succession of ice steps up to the rocky crest call for a fixed line. From the top, we have to make a 35 meter abseil to reach fixed lines for the next 300 meters of steep switchback descent on snow and rock.
We re-enter the Khumbu valley which, after so many days in a wilderness, seems busier than before. We will set up a base camp in the Imja Valley and prepare to summit Island Peak, 6189m, which lies close to the imposing south face of Lhotse.
We ascend Island Peak via the standard route, directly underneath the imposing south west face of Lhotse, fourth highest mountain in the world. Though lower in altitude than Mera Peak, Island Peak is slightly more challenging. The ascent involves an easy scramble up to a rock ridge and then onto a glacier where fixed lines are used to climb the 45 degree snow slopes leading to the exposed summit ridge. The fabulous summit views include Lhotse, Nuptse, Mt. Makalu and Ama Dablam. We follow the Chhukkung Valley and join the Everest Base Camp trail at Dingboche, one of many Sherpa settlements we pass through on our return to Lukla.
The best season for Mera and Island Peak Climbing is from March to May (Spring) and from September to November (Autumn). However, the winter is also a great time to climb if you are well prepared for the cold weather. In the crisp and cold month of December, the views of the mountains are crystal clear and there are fewer trekkers around. The duration of the Mera and Island Peak Climbing can be lengthened or shortened according to your preference. Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expedition will arrange every detail of your Mera and Island Peak Expedition; lodge accommodation, guides, food, as well as all the necessary climbing and camping equipment during the trip.
Planning to climb Mera and Island Peak in 2021 and 2022 !!
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