About Manaslu Expedition
Manaslu, 8163m, is recognized as a suitable first-time 8000 meter peak since the classic North-East route follows a relatively straightforward line to the summit. Although Manaslu doesn’t have extremely technical sections, the altitude alone excludes novice climbers. Manaslu poses all the adventure and risk that comes with being one of the highest mountains in the world. That being said, the Northeast aspect of the mountain is accessible due to less objective hazard.
Mt Manaslu, the world's 8th highest peak, is situated in Gorkha District of western Nepal. Annapurna Foothills Treks & Expedition operate full service, guided expeditions to climb the North-East face of Manaslu in both the pre and post monsoon seasons.
We welcome experienced mountaineers who have already climbed peaks up to at least 6500 meters and are competent on glaciated mountains.Climbing Mt. Manaslu under the leadership of experienced guides defines a perfect opportunity to enter the world of 8000m peaks. Many mountaineers climb Manaslu as training for a future attempt of Mount Everest.
Our expeditions are led by our expert climbing guides who are familiar with the risks of glaciers and the objective dangers of high peaks, having led successful expeditions to 8000-meter mountains in Nepal and Tibet. As well as gradual acclimatization, safety measures are taken to minimize risks in exposed or dangerous areas.
A skilled support staff of capable Sherpas completes the team. They carry the expedition gear which includes high-quality safety and mountain equipment. They provide the well organized and efficient logistics which is an important component of a successful expedition.Our cooking staff specializes in nutritious, generous and tasty meals to provide the energy that is so vital at high altitudes. Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expedition limit the expedition to eight climbers with their support crew in order to maintain our standard of logistical service as well as safety. The Sherpa to climber support ratio is 1:1 with Manaslu summiter Climbing Sherpa.
Comparison to other 8000m peaks:
Manaslu is only slightly more technical than Cho Oyu or Shishapangma due to the crevassed glacier, seracs and ice. However, the weather on the North-East route is sometimes unpredictable. Clouds and snowfall increase the risk, and extra care must be taken to avoid crevasses and avalanches.
The Manaslu expedition starts from Arughat Bazar, approximately a 6 hr drive from Kathmandu. This beautiful 8-day trek into base camp gives the mountain a remote feel. We follow trails up the ridges of valleys, through beautiful forests and villages, gradually gaining altitude.The last village before Manaslu Base Camp is Sama Goan. From here we finally get our first clear view of Manaslu. From Sama Gaun, 3400m, it is a long trek up a hill that seems to have endless false crests, that takes us to Manaslu Base Camp.
Manaslu Expedition Climbing Route:
Safety is our number one priority, and for this, cautious acclimatization is vital. We will spend a few days at Base Camp, 4800m, before setting out on the Manaslu glacier. During the Manaslu expedition we will make several ascents and descents between the camps. The condition of the route is highly affected by weather conditions. Our Sherpas will break the trail through the snow and fix the ropes that are used on much of the route to the summit. Bamboo poles are useful as markers in the snow.
The route from Base Camp to C1, 5700m includes rock scrambles on moraine and dangerous sections of heavily crevassed glacier where we use fixed rope. Camp I sits on a protected shoulder of the Manaslu glacier at the foot of the North Peak, a satellite mountain of Manaslu. The first climb to Camp I usually takes between 2-4 hours. We drop off a load and return to Base Camp the same day.
The most technical section of the climb is between Camp I, 5700m and Camp II, 6400m, as there is a steep wall of seracs which is prone to collapse. We appreciate the safety of the ropes fixed by the Sherpas. It takes about 3-6 hours to climb to the flat area where we set up Camp II.
The route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs and becoming steep as we approach Camp III, 6900m, on a flat saddle below the col. There can be very strong winds at this camp. If conditions are good, Camp III can be reached in less than 3 hours.
The route to Camp IV, 7400m, has some short steep sections of ice and snow. It can take between 4-8 hours, depending on conditions. Camp IV is on an exposed traverse which is the beginning of the summit plateau. It is just a place to rest and eat in preparation for the summit bid, far too windy to stay very long.
The main challenge of the summit is due the altitude and the fact that it is father than it appears. The climb starts out with moderate slopes of snow and some blue ice. After traversing three plateaus there is a steep climb with some exposed sections to reach the true summit.
Planning to climb Mount Manaslu in Nepal !!
We have a Guaranteed Departures for Mount Manaslu Expediiton in 2021 and 2022. We have spaces available for you to join. We are looking forward to make a small group. If you are interested in joining the group please let us know. This small group is sure to be a lot of fun and it is a great saving too. Please get in touch for further details.