About Pachermo and Kyajo Ri Expedition
This expedition includes two rarely climbed peaks in the Rolwaling and Khumbu regions of Nepal. Pachermo, 6187 m, is a relatively straight forward trekking peak which is an excellent preparation for the tougher objective - Kyajo Ri, 6186 m.
Pachermo Peak: The approach trek follows the remote and beautiful Rolwaling Valley (east to west) to the Tasi Labsta pass, 5755 m, which is due north of Pachermo Peak.
The Tasi Labsta pass is part of the ridge that rises between the Rolwaling Valley and the Thame Valley (of the Khumbu). A one-day drive to Dolakha takes us to the trail head. Trekkers are seldom seen in the rugged wilderness of the Rolwaling Valley. The valley is at first steep sided and covered in thick forests but climbs into high summer pastures where the valley widens out to incredible mountain scenery.
A long, grueling hike over rocky moraine and crevassed snow leads to where the glacier flattens out astride the Tasi Labsta Pass, a wild and impressive place where we are surrounded by superb vista of two mountain ranges in one of the most inaccessible parts of the Himalaya. Many peaks have never been climbed or even named. From here there is also a magnificent view of the summit of Pachermo, and the route of ascent; a clearly defined northern ridge leads up to the snowy peak.
The base camp is on a rocky terrace just below the glacier at around 5700m. Pachermo is a straight forward climb on steep snow with several sections of scrambling on rock and ice. Weather, snow and glacier conditions play a large part in how difficult the route will be. Sometimes it can be tricky traversing the crevasses on the ice step below the summit. If necessary we will use fixed ropes. From the summit of Pachermo there is a magnificent view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. We descend into the Thame Valley towards our next and tougher objective, Kyajo Ri.
Kyajo Ri: This semi technical peak has until now has received little attention from the climbing world despite being so close to Namche Bazaar in the popular Everest region. Though its height puts it in the trekking peak category, Kyajo Ri is a full-blown expedition peak with plenty of technical interest.The south-west ridge of Kyajo Ri is significantly harder, both physically and technically, than Lobuche East-East or Island Peak.
Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of a ridge which runs from north of Namche Bazaar all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepal-Tibet border. This ridge divides the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east. Kyajo Ri is the highest peak in the vicinity and so there is a sensational panoramic view from the top; we can see Everest and all the other 8000-meter peaks of the Khumbu.
Base Camp, 4400m, is in a secluded hanging valley at, a couple of days walk from Thame, where Tenzing Norgay grew up. The Kyajo Ri climb utilizes two camps.There are some very highly exposed and steep pitches between Camp II, 5700m, and the summit. It is a beautiful mountain, with a sharp defined summit unlike Lobuche East, or Island Peak, which have long undefined summits that can be confusing to confirm on summit day.
The best season for Pachermo and Kyajo Ri Climbing is from March to May (Spring) and from September to November (Autumn). However, the winter is also a great time to climb if you are well prepared for the cold weather. In the crisp and cold month of December the views of the mountains are crystal clear and there are fewer tourists around. The duration of the Pachermo and Kyajor Ri Trip can be lengthened or shortened according to your preference. Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions will arrange every detail of your Pachermo and Kyajo Ri Expedition; lodge accommodation, food, as well as all the necessary climbing and camping equipment.
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