About Baruntse Expedition
For climbers ready to move on to a 7000+ meter-peak, Barunste 7129m, is the ultimate peak, providing excellent experience for even higher objectives. The South-East Ridge of Baruntse has a high success rate. Although it is a straightforward, less-technical climb, it contains many of the components of an 8000m peak expeditions in the Himalaya of Nepal.
Annapurna Foothills Treks is looking forward to 2022 and 2023 spring and autumn expeditions to Mount Baruntse Peak. Acclimatizing onMERA PEAK 6476m is considered the optimal way to acclimatize and condition for Baruntse climbing, so we have integrated of Mera Peak Climbing, 6476m (highest permitted trekking peak in Nepal) on our approach to Baruntse Base Camp.
Baruntse Expedition begins with an exciting morning flight up the scenic Khumbu valley takes us to Lukla, the starting point for many treks and expeditions in the Everest region. We will be met by our team of competent Local Sherpas who will facilitate the logistics for the rest of the expedition. Porters, cooks and highly experienced mountaineers will assist with setting up camps, providing delicious meals and ensuring our expedition is safe and successful. To reach Barunste, we trek through Sherpa settlements and Himalayan wilderness inspired by the views of Lhotse, Everest, and Makalu. Barunste stands in the middle of three glacial valleys: the Imja, the Hungu and the Barun. As we climb higher into the Hinku Khola valley, the steep, wooded ravine gradually opens out to a wide and magnificent view of mountains, including our first objective, Mount Mera Peak.
When we reach Mera Peak Base Camp 5400m, we sleep above the snow line for the first time on this expedition. The Mera Peak climb provides the acclimatization we need for Barunste. From Mera Peak, there is a magnificent panorama of giants like Makalu, 8481m, and Everest, 8850m, as well as our next objective, Baruntse. We move to Mera Peak High Camp before our attempt for summit. After Mera Peak, we descend into the Hungu Khola Valley toward Baruntse Base Camp via Kongma Dingma and Seto Pokhari.
Mera Peak and Barunste Peak Expeditions can be done conjointly for groups who have different constraints of time and fitness. If part of a group wanted to return to Lukla after Mera Peak, the remaining members could continue into the Hongu Valley to Barunste base camp. Or if you have already climbed Mera Peak or any other 6000m peaks, then you can directly climb Mount Baruntse only.
Baruntse Expedition Climbing Route and Strategy:
The route is essentially a straightforward climb on snow and ice with some corniced sections. There are two additional camps above Baruntse Base Camp.The itinerary allows time for acclimatization and possible weather delays. Acclimatization is achieved by ascending to the next high camp, then descending to the previous camp and resting.
Baruntse Base Camp, 5300m, is situated in a broad open valley on the lateral moraine of the Hongu glacier next to a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain. From the Base Camp, we climb the south-east ridge toward the West Col, which is pretty straightforward. Fixed line is needed however, to climb up the challenging 50° ice cliff to the West Col, which brings us to the glacial plateau where we set up our Baruntse Camp I, 6000m.
From Camp I, we ascend a long, low-angled glacier using fixed rope. The slope steepens on the approach to a small col on the South-East Ridge proper, where we establish Baruntse Camp II, 6450m. We will do our rotation climbs and then only push for summit when weather permits.
FromCamp II, we push for the summit. First, we make a short steep climb on a 45° ice wall to a small col, 6500m. There some are some steep steps on ice and short sections of rock to ascend, but the big challenge of summit day is the sharp ice shoulder, at around 7000m, that leads onto the summit ridge. Our Sherpa guide will fix ropes to ensure our safe ascent and descent. The wide ridge narrows closer to the true Baruntse Summit, 7129m, where we enjoy stunning views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Kanchenjunga and Makalu.The summit ascent takes approx. 10 - 12 hours on average but that of course will depend upon individual climbers. We descend by the same route to base camp.
After descending Baruntse, we cross the stunning Amphu Lapcha Pass and making our way back to Lukla via the popular Khumbu villages of Dingboche, Tengboche and Namche. Party awaits at Lukla before we fly back to Kathmandu next morning.
Planning to climb Mount Baruntse in Nepal in 2022 and 2023 !!
We are preparing groups for our October/November 2021 dates and groups for Baruntse Expediiton. Please get in touch for further details.
We have a Guaranteed Departures for Baruntse Expedition in 2022 and 2023. We have few spaces available to join for. We are looking forward to make a small group for our Baruntse Expedition. If you are interested in joining the group please let us know. This small group is sure to be a lot of fun and it is a great saving too. Please get in touch for further details.