Baruntse Expedition- 36 Days

For climbers ready to move on to a 7000+ meter-peak, Barunste, 7129m, is the ultimate peak, providing excellent experience for even higher objectives. The south-east Ridge of Baruntse has a high success rate. Although it is a straightforward, non-technical climb, it contains many of the components of an 8000m peak expedition.

Annapurna Foothills Treks is looking forward to 2015 pre and post-monsoon expeditions to Baruntse Peak. Acclimatizing on Mera Peak is considered the optimal way to acclimatize and condition for Baruntse, so we have integrated a climb of Mera Peak, 6476m,  on the approach to Base Camp.   

A short morning flight up the scenic Khumbu Valley takes us to Lukla, the starting point for many treks and expeditions in the Everest region including the Baruntse expedition.   We will be met by our team of competent Sherpas who will facilitate the logistics for the rest of the expedition.  Porters, cooks and highly experienced mountaineers will assist with setting up camps, providing delicious meals and ensuring our expedition is safe and successful.

To reach Barunste, we trek through Sherpa settlements and Himalayan wilderness inspired by the views of Lhotse, Everest, and Makalu.  Barunste stands in the middle of three glacial valleys: the Imja, the Hungu and the Barun. 

As we climb higher into the Hinku Khola valley, the steep, wooded ravine gradually opens out to a wide and magnificent view of mountains, including our first objective, Mera Peak. 

When we reach Mera Peak Base Camp, 5400m, we sleep above the snow line for the first time on this expedition.  The Mera Peak climb provides the acclimatization we need for Barunste. From Mera Peak, there is a magnificent panorama of giants like Makalu, 8481m, and Everest, 8850m, as well as our next objective, Baruntse.

After Mera Peak, we descend into the Hungu Khola Valley toward Baruntse Base Camp.
 
NOTE:
Mera Peak and Barunste Peak expeditions can be done conjointly for groups who have different constraints of time and fitness.  If part of a group wanted to return to Lukla after Mera Peak, the remaining members could continue into the Hongu Valley to Barunste. 

The Baruntse Expedition Route
 
The route is essentially a straightforward climb on snow and ice with some corniced sections. There are three additional camps above Baruntse Base Camp.  The itinerary allows time for acclimatization and possible weather delays.  Acclimatization is achieved by ascending to the next high camp, then descending to the previous camp and resting.
 
Baruntse Base Camp, 5300m, is situated in a broad open valley on the lateral moraine of the Hongu glacier next to a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain.  From the Base Camp, we climb the south-east ridge toward the West Col, which is pretty straightforward.   Fixed line is needed however, to climb up the challenging 50° ice cliff to the West Col, which brings us to the glacial plateau where we set up Baruntse Camp I, 6000m.
 
From Camp I, we ascend a long, low-angled glacier using fixed rope. The slope steepens on the approach to a small col on the South-East Ridge proper, where we establish Baruntse Camp II, 6450m.
 
From Camp II, we push for the summit. First, we make a short steep climb on a 45° ice wall to a small col, 6500m.  There some are some steep steps on ice and short sections of rock to ascend, but the big challenge of summit day is the sharp ice shoulder, at around 7000m, that leads onto the summit ridge. Our Sherpa guide will fix ropes to ensure our safe ascent and descent.  The wide ridge narrows closer to the true Baruntse Summit, 7129m, where we enjoy stunning views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Kanchenjunga and Makalu.
 
The summit ascent takes around 10 hours. We descend by the same route.  After descending Baruntse, we cross the stunning Amphu Lapcha Pass and making our way back to Lukla

 

Trip Highlights

 

  • Stunning view of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse and Makalu to the north
  • approach trek through remote Hongu Valley
  • includes a favorite trekking peak, Mera,  for acclimatization
  • excellent peak to gain experience for world of 8000-meter peaks
     

Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu

Day 2 : Preparation Day in Kathmandu

Day 3 : Fly to Lukla, 2820m, and trek to Paiya (Chutok), 2730m, 3-4 hrs

Day 4 : Paiya to Pangoma, 2850m, 5-6 hrs

Day 5 : Pangoma to Sibuche (Nigmsa), 2745m, 4-5 hrs

Day 6 : Sibuche to Majang Khola, 3150m, 7-8 hrs

Day 7 : Majang Khola to Kote, 3600m: 6-7 hrs

Day 8 : Kote to Thangnak, 4356m, 5hrs

Day 9 : Acclimatization Day in Thangnak

Day 10 : Thangnak to Khare, 5045m, 4-5 hrs

Day 11 : Khare to Mera La, 5415m, to Base Camp 5350m, 3-4 hrs

Day 12 : Acclimatization Day in Base Camp /Preparation day

Day 13 : Base Camp to High Camp, 5780m, 4 hrs

Day 14 : Mera High Camp to Summit to Kongma Dingma, 4850m, 9-10 hrs

Day 15 : Reserve Day in case of bad weather or acclimatization problem

Day 16 : Kongma Dingma to Seto Pokhari, 5035m, 6 hrs

Day 17 : Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Base Camp, 5250m, 6 hrs

Day 18 : 18-27 Baruntse Climbing Period

Day 28 : Pack at the Baruntse Base Camp

Day 29 : Baruntse Base Camp to Amphu Labsta Base Camp, 5650m, 4-5 hrs

Day 30 : Amphu Labsta Base Camp(South) to Amphu Labsta Base Camp(North) ,5300m, 5 - 6 hrs

Day 31 : Amphu Labtsa Base Camp to Pangboche , 3930m, 6-7 hours

Day 32 : Pangboche to Namche Bazaar, 3440m, 5 - 6 hrs

Day 33 : Namche Bazaar to Lukla, 2800m, 6-7 hrs

Day 34 : Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 35 : Free day Kathmandu

Day 36 : Departure from Kathmandu

Cost Include(s)

  • All local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport) as mentioned in itinerary
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu: 4 Nights with Bed & Breakfast in Hotel Shakti
  • Welcome dinner with Live Nepalese Cultural Program
  • Permit and National Park fees for Amadablam Expedition
  • Kathmandu -Lukla - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
  • All meals in lodges during Trekking
  • All meals cooked by our trained cook during Camping and Expedition period
  • Camping equipment: kitchen equipment, dining tent, kitchen tent and toilet tent, storage tent, table and chairs
  • 1 top quality Ozark tent per climber during expedition and sleeping mat
  • Qualified and experienced Sherpa climbing guide, Base Camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper, porters
  • Daily allowance, Insurance, equipment allowance for all expedition staff  
  • Daily allowance, equipment allowance, food and tent for Government Liaison Officer (compulsory)
  • Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
  • Emergency Oxygen and Gamow Bag
  • Satellite phone (Pay calls)
  • Solar panel for batteries charges and lights
  • Climbing food, gas & stove above Base Camp (if you prefer to bring your own, we will adjust the price of the package)
  • Refundable Garbage Fee
  • Farewell celebration dinner in Kathmandu last night in Kathmandu

Cost Exclude(s)

  • Your personal equipment for climbing & trekking.
  • Your personal & medical insurance for expedition.
  • Lunches & dinners in Kathmandu (welcome and farewell dinners are included)
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter if required
  • Permits for Client's personal Radio set or Satellite phone
  • Oxygen Regulator and Mask
  • Personal expenses
  • Bar Bills & beverages
  • Guided sightseeing around Kathmandu Valley

Advice for tipping and bonus for Sherpa

  • USD 80-150 for support staff who stay at base camp
  • USD 100-200 for Sherpa who accompanies you up to the base camp
  • USD 300-500 for Sherpa who accompanies you up to the top of the summit
Start Date End Date Cost Status Booking
10 April, 2017 15 May, 2017 USD $8300 per person Available Book Now

Why Climb Baruntse with Annapurna Foothills?

  • Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions a Nepal-based owner operated company who can make your Baruntse Summit a reality for a reasonable price
  • We pay the Garbage Fee of $2000 per person! Many companies exclude the Garbage Fee, as it is refundable, but often the refund comes after the clients departure from Nepal!
  • Climbers get high quality services without the pricey sophisticated and nonessentials offered by international operators
  • Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions does not compromise safety
  • We use only the best quality equipment in the market
  • We take care of details which will help you keep both comfortable and healthy your expedition so that every aspect of your expedition will be a pleasant memory.
  • One veteran Sherpa climbing guide accompanies each climber to allow maximum flexibility. Each climber can take advantage of a window of good weather and personal climbing pace
  • Our Sherpa Climbing Guides are veterans of multiple 7000 and 8000 meter summits.
  • Our Sherpas will go ahead to prepare the camps allowing you to take the time you need, and focus on climbing rather than logistics

Single Supplementary US$ 300 per person (Includes single hotel room in Kathmandu , single room/tent on trek, single tent at Base Camp)

Return to Kathmandu by Helicopter:

At the end of a long expedition, a quick flight by helicopter from Base Camp to Lukla or Kathmandu is quite appealing. You could also trek to Pheriche and fly from there.

Helicopter flights are available at the climbers own expense. The cost depends upon passenger load and whether the helicopter is already in the Khumbu area or has to come from Kathmandu.

If Luggage Gets Left Behind:

It may not be possible to take all your gear in the helicopter, depending on the number of passengers and weight restrictions.

Besides the fact that at the end of the climbing season, flights out of Lukla are heavily booked, unpredictable weather at the onset of monsoon can result in flights being cancelled. If this happens, priority will be given to passengers rather than their baggage.

If for any reason you get separated from your bags, Annapurna Treks and Expeditions will make every effort to get them to Kathmandu before your departure flight.

If you depart from Nepal before your bags arrive back in Kathmandu, we can get them shipped to you, but this will be at your expense.

Personal Gear

In Kathmandu, there will be a detailed briefing and a chance to check if we have all the necessary gear.  There are plenty of shops which supply a complete range of excellent quality trekking/climbing equipment.  

For the most part, you will only need to carry the items which you require during the day while climbing. Your Sherpa guide will carry loads (including your sleeping bag and a reasonable amount of your personal gear) between the camps.

Communication

Each climber/Sherpa team is issued a VHF hand held radio and satellite phone.

Cell phones and Internet

The GSM cell phone network may have poor reception in places. Reasonably priced GSM phones, SIM cards and prepaid calling cards are available in Kathmandu.

 

Trip Facts

Destination : Nepal

Duration : 36 Days

Price : US $7990 p/p

Trip Grade : Alpine Grade 3D

Group Size:2 - 12 Persons

Maximum Height:7129m

Transport:By Air

Starting:Kathmandu

Ending:Kathmandu

Hotel in Kathmandu:4 Nights B&B plan (Bed & Breakfast)

Accommodation during Expedition:All meals in lodges during Trekking & Camping

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