Tilicho Peak Expedition- 37 Days

Tilicho Peak is a challenging but straightforward climb. Tilicho Peak Base Camp sits on the shore of the aqua-blue Tilicho Lake. Tilicho Peak is technically interesting as the standard route via the northwest shoulder has mix of rock and ice leading up to steep snowfields. Tilicho Peak has little objective danger because the shoulder is very wide. The summit view is breathtaking: Annapurna massif, Dhaulagiri, Tibetan plateau and below, the deepest valley in the world the Kali Gandaki valley and Tilicho Lake.

In 1950, a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog went to Nepal to look for an approach to ascend Annapurna I.  At Tilicho Lake they found a tremendous wall of rock an ice between them and the Annapurna I.  In fact, it was a shoulder of rock and ice that extends in a north-northwest direction for 11km, and finally drops down into Tilicho Lake.   They named it “la grande barriere” the great barrier.  Tilicho Peak is located at the end of Great Barrier, high above the glacial Tilicho Lake. It was climbed for the first time by French climber Emanuel Schmutz via the Northwest shoulder which remains the standard climbing route. 

Our approach to base camp follows the Annapurna Circuit Trail up the beautiful Marsyangdi valley to the villages of Manang and Khansar affording an excellent acclimatization over about 10 days.  This approach is also simpler logistically.

(An optional time-saving route is to fly directly to Jomsom in the Kali Gandaki Valley and climb over the Mesokanto Pass, 5300m to Base Camp in 3 days. This option allows little time for acclimatization.)  

 

Tilicho Peak Climbing Route:

Tilicho Peak Base Camp, 4800m, is located on the Northwest end of the lake, a beautiful place to rest and acclimatize. Marine fossils found around the lake suggest that the Himalayas were once beneath the sea. Lake Tilicho is our water source. The water should be filtered or purified by iodine tablets or boiled.There are two high camps on the Tilicho Peak route. 

The climb from Base Camp to Camp I, 5795m, on a shelf below the Northwest shoulder is straightforward. The route crosses a big (1.5km) snow field and then climbs on 50 degree mixed rock and ice for about 690m. From Camp I we enjoy the view of Tilicho Lake down below. The first trip is for acclimatization, and to take some camping gear up to Camp I. During the second ascent to Camp I, we stay overnight.  The next day we climb to Camp II. 

Camp II, 6200m, sits on the shoulder. The ascent to Camp II crosses a 700 meter snowfield of 55 degrees leading up to the shoulder. Fixed rope is required because of the angle, but luckily the width of the shoulder means there is low objective danger. We stay overnight at Camp II; if the weather is good we attempt the summit. If not, we return to Base Camp to recover and prepare for our next summit push.

The route to the summit of Tilicho Peak, 7134m continues on the wide shoulder. Though there is little exposure, the challenge is to cover the 800-900m snowfield with 55-60 degree slopes with as few stops as possible, reducing the risk of avalanche. 

At the end of the expedition most people choose the shortest option, over the Mesokanto Pass to Jomsom which takes only one day. From Jomsom we can fly to Pokhara.   

A three day option is to follow the Annapurna Circuit Trail via Thorong La pass, 5416m and fly out of Jomsom.

Allowing 16 days for the climbing period accommodates the acclimatization process and adverse weather conditions, leaving us ample opportunities to make the summit push.

 

Planning to climb Tilicho Peak in 2019 and 2020 !!

Email us: info@annapurnafoothills.com 

We have guaranteed departures for Tilicho Peak Climb this Autumn .There are trekker really eager to do ths Trip. We are looking to make small group of 04- 06 members.  If you are interested in joining the group please let us know. This small group is sure to be a lot of fun, and it is a great saving too. The solo expedition cost is 8000 USD per person; however, if we can make it a group of 04 - 05, the cost per person will be only $ 7500 USD which is all incllusive price. 

 

Trip Highlights

 

  • technically interesting and challenging 7000m climb 
  • incredibly beautiful location by Tilicho Lake
  • few climbers on the mountain 
  • culture of remote traditional villages similar to Tibet
  • Test your high altitude climbing skills on this mountain 
  • Trek and climb with our experienced Sherpa Guides
  • Well set up camps and logistics in the mountain 

 

Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu

Day 2 : Checking equipment and trip briefing

Day 3 : Official work & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism

Day 4 : Drive Kathmandu to Besisahar, 820m - 7 hrs

Day 5 : Trek from Besisahar to Ngadi, 1000m, 6 hrs

Day 6 : Trek from Ngadi to Jagat,1350m, 6 hrs

Day 7 : Trek from Jagat to Dharapani, 1943m, 5 hrs

Day 8 : Trek from Dharapani to Chame, 2713m, 6hrs

Day 9 : Trek from Chame to Pisang, 3185m, 6hrs

Day 10 : Trek from Pisang to Manang, 3500m, 6 hrs

Day 11 : Trek from Manang to Khangsar, 3730m, 6 hrs

Day 12 : Trek from Khangsar to Tilicho Lake, 4900m, 4hrs

Day 13 : Tilicho Lake via Mesokanto pass, 5315m, toTilicho Base Camp, 5400m, 5 hrs

Day 14 : 14-30 Ascend Tilicho Peak, 7134m

Day 31 : Clean up Base Camp

Day 32 : Tilicho Base Camp via Mesokanto Pass, 5315m, to Namu Kharka

Day 33 : Namu Kharka to Jomsom, Overnight in Hotel

Day 34 : Fly to Pokhara and relax the rest of the day

Day 35 : Fly to Kathmandu, Check into Hotel

Day 36 : Free Day in Kathmandu, Expedition Celebration Dinner

Day 37 : Departure from Kathmandu to your next destination

Start Date End Date Cost Status Booking
05 October, 2019 10 November, 2019 US $7500 per person Available
10 November, 2019 16 December, 2019 US $7500 per person Available
12 April, 2020 18 May, 2020 US $7500 per person Available
14 October, 2020 19 November, 2020 US $7500 per person Available
05 November, 2020 11 December, 2020 US $7500 per person Available

Cost Include(s)

Tilicho Peak Expedition 2019 and 2020 :

Full Board Cost : $ 7500 Per Person

Base Camp Service Cost Only: $ 4500 Per Person   

        

  •  Airport – Hotel- Airport transportation.
  • 4 nights hotel (3 star category) in Kathmandu on BB plan sharing basis (Twin Bed Room)

  •  National Park fees and Expedition permit.

  •  Annapurna Foothills Tshirt 

  • Camping equipment: sleeping tent and foam mattress, Dining tent, Kitchen tent and Toilet tent
  • Dining Tables, Chairs and Kitchen equipments
  • Three meals a day during the trek and camping (Morning tea or coffee, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
  • Base Camp Manager, Cook, Kitchen boys and Porters for your trip.
  • Camping and Kitchen equipment
  • Heater will be provided at base camp for the dining tent
  • Daily wages for Porters and all Nepali staff
  • Insurance for Porters and all Nepali staff
  • Equipment for Porters and Nepali staff
  • Government Liaison officer, his all allowance, food, tent
  • Nepali culture show with welocme and farewell dinner
  • All the land transportation mentioned in the itinerary
  • Gamow Bag and emergency oxygen
  • Satellite phone service (pay calls)
  • Celebration Dinner last night in Kathmandu
  • Solar panel for batteries charges and lights
  • Garbage Fee
  • Annapurna Conservation Fee 

 

(01 -22) Base Camp Services 

(01-26) - Full Board Service

 

23. Above Base Camp, High Altitude Tents, High Altitude Meals, EP Gas burner and cooking pot for members  

24. Tilicho Peak summiteers Climbing Sherpa (02 Sherpa: 03 Members Ratio) 

25. Walkie Talkie Permit

26. Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope required during the climb. 

Cost Exclude(s)

  • Your personal equipment for climbing & trekking.
  • Your personal & medical insurance during the expedition.
  • Lunches & dinners in Kathmandu 
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter if required
  • Permits for Client's personal Radio set or Satellite phone
  • Oxygen Bottle, Mask and Regulator

 

Advice for tipping support staffs and Summit bonus for Climbing Sherpa

 

  • USD 100-150 for support staff / helpers who stays at base camp
  • USD 250- 300 for base camp Head Cook 
  • USD 250-400 for Sherpa/Base Camp Guide who manages the base camp 
  • USD 500-800 for Climbing Sherpa who accompanies you up to the top of the summit

Why Climb Tilicho Peak with Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expedition

  • Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions a Nepal-based owner operated company who can make your dream of reaching the summit of Tilicho a reality for a reasonable price
  • It is the perfect option for experienced, confident climbers want high quality services without the pricey sophisticated and nonessentials offered by international operators
  • Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions does not compromise safety
  • We use only the best quality equipment in the market
  • We take care of details of your expedition which will help you keep both comfortable and healthy
  • One veteran Sherpa climbing guide accompanies each climber to allow maximum flexibility. Each climber can take advantage of a window of good weather and personal climbing pace
  • Our Sherpa Climbing Guides are veterans of multiple 8000 meter summits.

The best seasons to do the Tilicho Peak Expedition are in the Fall, from September to November, and in the Spring from March to May.

 

Oxygen and Medical

We carry top quality oxygen as well as oxygen mask and regulator for medical emergencies. We carry a comprehensive first aid kit throughout the expedition. Our guides are certified in first aid for high altitude. We carry a Gamow bag during the trek up to Advanced Base Camp, where it will be kept during the climb.

Trip Facts

Destination : Nepal

Duration : 37 Days

Price : US $7500 p/p

Trip Grade : Very Strenuous

Maximum Height:7134m

Activities:Trekking, Camping, Climbing

Minimum Group Size:2 Trekkers

Maximum Group Size:6 Trekkers

Transport By:Private Vehicle, Domestic Flights

Starting:Kathmandu

Ending:Kathmandu

Best Season:March- May and September- December

Permits:Expedition Permit and all documentation

Hotel in Kathmandu:4 nights on B&B plan (Bed & Breakfast)

Hotel in Pokhara:1 night on BB plan

Accommodation during Trek:10 nights (Tea House)

Accommodation during camping:Meals during 19 nights camping (breakfast, lunch, dinner, tang juice, fruit, tea and coffee)

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