• Jun 17, 2022
  • Tashi Sherpa
  • 61

Table of Contents

Island Peak climbing is an interesting, challenging and one of the most popular trekking peaks in the Khumbu Himalaya of Nepal. At 6189 meters, Island Peak is a good ice and rock climbing experience which requires experience with equipments such as mountaineering boots, crampons, abseiling, glacier trekking, crossing ladders, ice axe and climbing fixed ropes.

Our Island Peak Climbing FAQs will provide the various answers that you have been looking for and further guide you through the succeeding stages of planning and preparing before making any serious climbing decisions. Accordingly, here are the most popular questions with answers.

1. Where is Island Peak?

Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189m is located just over the ridge from Mount Everest and Lhotse. You can reach there by trekking through the Khumbu valley, following the classic Everest Base Camp trekking trail until Dingboche village. It is listed as a trekking peak by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and can be climbed as a person's first Himalayan experience depending upon their previous trekking and climbing history. Most trekker flies from Kathmandu to Lukla and take about a week to trek to Island Peak base camp.

2. How is the Island Peak summit day like?

SUMMIT DAY is the main day of your climb. Obviously it will be the tough, challenging, long day and equally rewarding day. We start the climb early in the morning let’s say around 2 or 3 AM in the morning depending upon the situation on the mountain. Generally, the climb will take around 10- 14 hours depending upon the climber.

3. How hard and technical is Island Peak climb?

Island Peak is a good ice and rock climbing experience at altitude which requires experience with equipments such as mountaineering boots, crampons, abseiling, glacier trekking, crossing ladders, ice axe and climbing fixed ropes. The route to Island Peak is a bit technical and involves crossing crevasses on ladders and using fixed rope to reach the summit. The real crux of climbing Island Peak is the final 150 meters (Ice Head Wall) as it can be a bit steep. Climbers must be in excellent physical condition, well acclimatized and equipped to push for the summit of Island Peak which might take approx. 10-14 hours depending upon climbers.

4. When is the best time to climb Island Peak?

The best time to climb Island Peak is during autumn season (September to November) and spring season (March to May). Winter climbs is also possible.

5. Which route is most popular?

There is really only one standard route i.e. from Dingbuche - Chhukung village to Island Peak Base Camp –Island Peak High Camp – Crampon Point- Island Peak Summit. Till Dingbuche village, you will follow the classic Everest Base Camp trekking trail. We will spend one night at Island Peak Base Camp and one night at Island Peak High Camp before attempting for the summit of Island Peak.

6. How many nights in tents will I spend during Island Peak Climb?

We spend one night at Base Camp and another night in High Camp before our summit push for Island Peak. We will return down to Chhukung on the same night. We will have one reserve day just in case of bad weather or any other reasons. In that case we will spend another night at High Camp.

7. Any tips on how climbers can maximize their chance of success?

The first and foremost advice is to gain all the essential experience and climbing skills as instructed. Acclimatization is the key. We highly suggest taking enough time along the trail. Before you start your trek trainings back home, strength and endurance, physical training, multi day hiking experience and we suggest previous trekking experience above 4000m for Island Peak. Right gears and equipments is also a must. With that said, we will provide best possible logistics and support during your trip, our experienced, competent and friendly Sherpa guides are always there to provide you guys maximum chances of making the summit.

8. Do you provide trekking gear and equipment for Island Peak Climbing?

We provide your personal gears required during the Island Peak Climbing. We can recommend some good stores where you can rent or buy good down jackets or sleeping bags.

9. How big will be the group size for Island Peak Climbing?

We mainly focus on small groups. We take up to 10 trekkers in a group so that we can provide personal care to each of our members. If you have group of more than 10, please contact us for amazing group discounts and customized services.

10. Is climbing permit required to do Island Peak climb?

Climbing permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) authorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Yes, climbing permit is a must for Island Peak. The climbing permit is included in the package cost and we will arrange the climbing permit and transport service.

11. Is Travel Insurance needed for Island Peak Climbing?

A big yes!  Annapurna Foothills strongly recommends you have sufficient insurance coverage to you go into this remote area. Travel insurance that covers emergency evacuation, injury, lost baggage, liability, and medical treatment is recommended. The insurance must cover all the activities that you will be undertaking during your stay in Nepal. Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. can organize the appropriate medical response based on your policy.

12. Do I need to join a group or can I climb solo?

There is no requirement to join a group or departure dates to climb a 6000 meter peak in Nepal. We always try to be flexible with our trips for our guest’s convenience. We are open to changes on the trip details as long as the proposed itinerary or suggestions does not harm your own chances of acclimatization.

Private or Solo Trips is possible but a bit more expensive compared to joining a fixed date. We highly recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure climbing experience. With Annapurna Foothills, there is absolutely nothing to worry about if you wish to do a private solo trip or join a departure date. We assign local professional guides, porter etc. whom you could trust with your life as they are highly experienced and give first priority to your safety.

13. Can I hire only Guide and a Porter from you for climbing Island Peak?

Yes, you can hire Trekking and Climbing Guide and Porter services from us. We can offer customizable services of Guides, Porters, Domestic Flights and Documentation.

14. What sort of food can I expect on Island Peak Climb?

Food during your Island Peak Climbing trekking trail can be one of the major highlights. Meals around the mountains consist of a diet rich in carbohydrates because our bodies do not process fat and protein efficiently at higher elevations and to compensate the increase in caloric need that high-altitude climbing involves. We try to make meals and breakfast varied and as normal as possible. Typical meals are rice, noodles, pasta, potato dishes along with vegetable and egg dishes. Lunches will also consist of cooked meals. Above Base Camp, climbing food mainly consists of dried meals such as pastas or rice. Normally, you will have dinner and breakfast at the lodge where you stay overnight and lunch will be at the tea houses on the way.

15. Is it healthy to take shower during the trek?

You can get hot shower services throughout your Mera Peak Trip. However, the higher you climb the less pleasant it will be. It’s better to be on the safe side of things and we suggest not taking shower on a regular basis when you’re above 3000m. Hot showers also refers to Hot water bucket provided not the real showers.

16. How can I communicate if there’s an emergency during the trip?

At most villages along the Island Peak trail, the tea houses will have internet facility. You need to purchase internet recharge cards. The internet speed will be very basic. You can also purchase Nepalese SIM cards (NCEL or NTC) but their coverage will be limited. And our climbing guide will also carry a satellite phone for emergencies with minimum cost.

17. How much will I be spending on Island Peak climbing trekking trail per day?

You won’t be spending much on trail as the cost of accommodation and 3 meals a day are included in your trip cost while booking with Annapurna Foothills. USD 20 to 30 (NRS 2000-3000) per person per day will be enough since you have to personally pay for items such as beverages, cold and hot drinks, charging electronic devices, Wi-Fi, hot showers at the tea houses.

18. What is the luggage limit for porters and on flight to Lukla?

The luggage limit for Porter is around 25 KG. We will provide one porter for two trekkers during the trip. Porter are those staffs who not carry only your luggage but also lift your spirit to reach new heights and your affection and generosity can be the reason for them to work hard to take you to your destination.
Lukla flights weight limit is 10 KG. Extra baggage can be taken with additional costs.

19. In case of bad weather and our Lukla flights get cancelled, what are the alternatives that we will have?

If our domestic flights to or from Lukla get cancelled because of bad weather, we’ll have two major options;

Reschedule your flight next day. Additional expenses like accommodation, food etc. need to be paid by guests.

Other option will be a Helicopter flight which will be expensive compared to regular flights. Cost will depend upon availability, number of members and baggage weight.

20. What is the policy on Leave No Trace while climbing Island Peak?

We value and operate eco-friendly trips and are highly committed to Leave No Trace. Our guides and staffs are well aware of their responsibility toward environment. Garbage which is burnable are sorted and burnt and those which can be recycled are taken back to Lukla and handover to Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC).

21. Why should I visit Nepal for a 6000m peak climbing?

Nepal should be on top of your BUCKET LIST for trekking and climbing adventures. For climbing a 6000m peak as well because Nepal comprises 1400 trekking peaks above 6000m and 8 of the 14, 8000m peaks in the world. With the rich variety of flora and fauna, landscapes, the hospitality of the Nepalese locals, the favorable climatic and geographical conditions, the rich cultural spirit which represents a unique blend of Buddhism and Hinduism, it is fair to say that your mountaineering ambitions can be taken to a new level here in the Himalaya of Nepal.

22. Why should I choose to climb Island Peak with Annapurna Foothills?

Not just because we are a Nepal based local operator but our Sherpa climbing guides are experienced, competent, professional and all of them have numerous high altitude experiences including Mount Everest and other 8000m in the Himalaya of Nepal. Our guides in Himalaya are provided with satellite phone communication allowing us to maintain excellent emergency contact capabilities and keep your friends and family informed of our progress during the long weeks away from home. We focus on safety, quality and value for money by providing good equipments, gears and logistics required for your trip, things that many lower cost programs don’t facilitates with.

23. What happens if I need to leave the expedition beforehand?

Well, it depends upon the kinds of emergency you’re going through. If you have to leave the expedition due to ill health or severe injury, we will arrange an emergency air rescue immediately which will fly you out of the mountains to Kathmandu for medical attention. Make sure your insurance covers high altitude mountain search and rescue.

If you are able to walk down, one of the assistant guides will guide you down to a lower elevation where you can wait for the rest of the team or fly out to Kathmandu ahead of the group.

Even if you leave the expedition beforehand, we are committed to pay the porters and guides for the duration of the trip for which they are hired. So, refunds for the unused days for your trip will not be given. We can provide something complementary depending upon the cases.

24. What is your Island Peak cancellation policy?

Regarding cancellation, if a guest voluntarily or involuntarily terminates/cancels the trip once the trip has started, no refund will be given for missed or unused services of the trip regardless of the reason i.e. sickness, or any other unfortunate events.

In case if any guests wish to cancel their trip prior to their departure for any reasons then a written application should be sent by the guests to us, two weeks prior to the trip starting date. If the cancellation is made beyond the time limit then USD 200 per person will be charged. As per our company policy, deposit amount is non- refundable and can be utilized with the timeframe of one year from the trip confirmation date.

25. Count me in for the trip. How do I book Island Peak climbing?

Excellent!

We’ll be happy to welcome you soon in Nepal and provide you our expert team to do the magnanimous Island Peak Climbing in Himalaya of Nepal.

Please, go through this link for booking procedure.

https://www.annapurnafoothills.com/how-to-make-bookings

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