It is fair enough to say that Mera peak and Island peak are among the most famous trekking peaks of Himalaya in Nepal. Both peaks are among the first choices for novice climbers who are just starting mountain climbing and training peaks for those who aims to summit 8000 meter peaks in near future. Mera and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Labsta Pass (5700m) is a multi-peak climbing adventure in Nepal which lets you experience the summit of popular trekking peaks of highest permitted trekking peak, Mera Peak (6476m) and Island Peak (6189m). This exceptional high altitude adventure is packed with an amazing variety of mountains and wilderness valleys, forests and grasslands, lodges and camping: a complete Khumbu trekking and climbing experience for adventure lovers.
Our Mera and Island Peak Climbing FAQs will provide the various answers that you have been looking for and further guide you through the succeeding stages of planning and preparing before making any serious climbing decisions. Accordingly, here are the most popular questions with answers.
1. Where are these Mera and Island Peak?
Mera Peak, claimed to be the highest permitted trekking peak is situated in Mahalangur section administratively in Nepal's Sagarmatha Zone, Solukhumbu District, and Makalu Barun National Park. It sits in the Mahalangur section of the Himalaya to the East of the main Everest massif.
Similarly, Island Peak is located just over the ridge from Mount Everest and Lhotse. You can reach there by trekking through the Khumbu valley, following the classic Everest Base Camp trekking trail until Dingboche village.
2. How is the summit day at Mera and Island Peak like?
Well, Summit Day is the main day for both of your climbs (Mera and Island). Obviously it will be the tough, challenging, long day and equally rewarding day. We start the climb early in the morning (approximately 3 a.m.) in the morning depending upon the situation on the mountain. Generally, the climb will take around 10- 14 hours depending upon the climber.
3. How difficult and technical are Mera Peak and Island Peak?
Despite of being the highest permitted trekking peak, Mera peak climbing is a straightforward climb involving glacier trekking and only a basic level of mountaineering skill is required. It’s a peak of less technical difficulty but leads to strenuous long climb to reach the summit and taking care on descend where walk and climb leads to moraine-ice-snow and glaciers. Climbers must be mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitude and give their best effort to reach High Camp (summit night) in good physical condition.
On the other hand, Island Peak is a good ice and rock climbing experience at altitude which requires experience with equipments such as mountaineering boots, crampons, abseiling, glacier trekking, crossing ladders, ice axe and climbing fixed ropes. The route to Island Peak is a bit technical and involves crossing crevasses on ladders and using fixed rope to reach the summit. The real crux of climbing Island Peak is the final 150 meters (Ice Head Wall) as it can be a bit steep. Climbers must be in excellent physical condition, well acclimatized and equipped to push for the summit of Island Peak which might take approx. 10-14 hours depending upon climbers.
4. When is the best time to do Mera and Island Peak Climbing?
Autumn season (September to November) and Spring season (March to May) are the ideal time to do the Mera and Island Peak climbing in Nepal.
5. How many nights in tents will I be spending during the Mera and Island Peak Climb?
During your Mera and Island Peak climb, you'll be spending 8 days in tents (including reserve day).
6. Any tips on how climbers can maximize their chance of success on Mera and Island Peak?
The first and foremost advice is to gain all the essential experience and climbing skills as instructed. Acclimatization is the key. We highly suggest taking enough time along the trail. Before you start your trek trainings back home, strength and endurance, physical training, multi day hiking experience and we suggest previous trekking experience above 4000m for Island Peak. Right gears and equipments is also a must. With that said, we will provide best possible logistics and support during your trip, our experienced, competent and friendly Sherpa guides are always there to provide you guys maximum chances of making the summit of both Mera and Island Peak.
7. Do you provide trekking gear and equipment for Mera and Island Peak Climbing?
We provide your personal gears required during the Mera and Island Peak Climbing. Also, we can recommend some good stores where you can rent or buy good down jackets or sleeping bags for your Mera and Island peak expedition.
8. How big will be the Mera and Island Peak climbing group size?
We mainly focus on small groups. We take up to 8 trekkers in a group so that we can provide personal care to each of our members. And if you have group of more than 8 climbers, you can contact us directly for amazing group discounts and customized services.
9. Is climbing permit required for Mera and Island Peak Climbing? If yes, who arranges the climbing permit?
Climbing permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) authorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Yes, climbing permit is a must for Mera and Island Peak climb. The climbing permit is included in the package cost and we will arrange the climbing permit accordingly.
10. Is Travel Insurance needed for Mera and Island Peak Climbing?
A big yes!
Annapurna Foothills strongly recommends you have sufficient insurance coverage to you go into this remote area. Travel insurance that covers emergency evacuation, injury, lost baggage, liability, and medical treatment is recommended. The insurance must cover all the activities that you will be undertaking during your stay in Nepal. Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. can organize the appropriate medical response based on your policy.
11. Do I have to join a group or can I climb Mera and Island Peak solo?
There is no requirement to join a group or departure dates to climb a 6000 meter peak in Nepal. We always try to be flexible with our trips for our guest’s convenience. We are open to changes on the trip details as long as the proposed itinerary or suggestions does not harm your own chances of acclimatization.
Private or Solo Trips is possible but a bit more expensive compared to joining a fixed date. We highly recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure climbing experience.
With Annapurna Foothills, there is absolutely nothing to worry about if you wish to do a private solo trip or join a departure date. We assign local professional guides, porter etc. whom you could trust with your life as they are highly experienced and give first priority to your safety.
12. Can I hire only Guide and Porter from you for Mera and Island Peak Climbing?
Yes, you can hire Trekking and Climbing Guide and Porter services from us. We can offer customizable services of Guides, Porters, Domestic Flights and Documentation.
13. What sort of food can I expect on Mera and Island Peak Climbing trekking trail?
Along the Mera and Island Peak climbing trekking trail, food can be one of the major highlights. Meals around the mountains consist of a diet rich in carbohydrates because our bodies do not process fat and protein efficiently at higher elevations and to compensate the increase in caloric need that high-altitude climbing involves. We try to make meals and breakfast varied and as normal as possible. Typical meals are rice, noodles, pasta, potato dishes along with vegetable and egg dishes.
Lunches will also consist of cooked meals. Above Base Camp, climbing food mainly consists of dried meals such as pastas or rice. Normally, you will have dinner and breakfast at the lodge where you stay overnight and lunch will be at the tea houses on the way.
14. Is it safe to take showers during the Mera and Island Peak climbing?
You can get hot shower services at every tea houses during your Mera and Island Peak Trip. However, the higher you climb the less pleasant it will be. It’s better to be on the safe side of things and we suggest not taking shower on a regular basis when you’re above 3000m. Hot showers sometimes refer to Hot water bucket provided not the real showers.
15. How can I communicate if there’s an emergency during Mera and Island Peak Climbing?
At most villages along the Mera and Island Peak trail, the tea houses will have internet facility. You need to purchase internet recharge cards. The internet speed will be very basic. You can also purchase Nepalese SIM cards (NCEL or NTC) but their coverage will be limited. And our climbing guide will also carry a satellite phone for emergencies with minimum cost.
16. How much will I be spending on Mera and Island Peak trekking trail per day?
During your Mera and Island Peak climbing, you won’t be spending much on trail as the cost of accommodation and 3 meals a day are included in your trip cost while booking with Annapurna Foothills. USD 20 to 30 (NRS 2000-3000) per person per day will be enough since you have to personally pay for items such as beverages, cold and hot drinks, charging electronic devices, Wi-Fi, hot showers at the tea houses.
17. What is the maximum luggage on flight to Lukla?
The luggage limit for Porter is around 25 KG. We will provide 1 Porter, 1 Trekker during the trip. Porter are those staffs who not carry only your luggage but also lift your spirit to reach new heights and your affection and generosity can be the reason for them to work hard to take you to your destination.
Lukla flights weight limit is 10 KG. Extra baggage can be taken with additional costs.
18. What are the alternatives that we will have in case of bad weather?
If our domestic flights to or from Lukla get cancelled because of bad weather, we’ll have two major options;
Reschedule your flight next day. Additional expenses like accommodation, food etc. need to be paid by guests.
Other option will be a Helicopter flight which will be expensive compared to regular flights. The cost will depend upon availability, number of members, and baggage weight.
19. What is the policy on Leave No Trace while climbing Mera and Island Peak?
We value and operate eco-friendly trips and are highly committed to Leave No Trace. Our guides and staffs are well aware of their responsibility toward environment. Garbage which is burnable are sorted and burnt and those which can be recycled are taken back to Lukla and handover to Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC).
20. Why should I visit to Nepal for a 6000m peak climbing?
Nepal should be on top of your BUCKET LIST for trekking and climbing adventures. For climbing a 6000m peak as well because Nepal comprises 1400 trekking peaks above 6000m and 8 of the 14, 8000m peaks in the world. With the rich variety of flora and fauna, landscapes, the hospitality of the Nepalese locals, the favorable climatic and geographical conditions, the rich cultural spirit which represents a unique blend of Buddhism and Hinduism, it is fair to say that your mountaineering ambitions can be taken to a new level here in Nepal.
22. Why should I choose to climb Mera and Island Peak with Annapurna Foothills?
Not just because we are a Nepal based local operator but our Sherpa climbing guides are experienced, competent, professional and all of them have numerous high altitude experiences including Mount Everest and other 8000m in the Himalaya of Nepal. Our guides in Himalaya are provided with satellite phone communication allowing us to maintain excellent emergency contact capabilities and keep your friends and family informed of our progress during the long weeks away from home. We focus on safety, quality and value for money by providing good equipments, gears and logistics required for your trip, things that many lower cost programs don’t facilitates with.
23. What happens if I need to leave this expedition early?
Well, it depends upon the kinds of emergency you’re going through. If you have to leave the expedition due to ill health or severe injury, we will arrange an emergency air rescue immediately which will fly you out of the mountains to Kathmandu for medical attention. Make sure your insurance covers high altitude mountain search and rescue.
If you are able to walk down, one of the assistant guides will guide you down to a lower elevation where you can wait for the rest of the team or fly out to Kathmandu ahead of the group.
Even if you leave the expedition beforehand, we are committed to pay the porters and guides for the duration of the trip for which they are hired. So, refunds for the unused days for your trip will not be given. We can provide something complementary depending upon the cases.
24. What is your cancellation policy regarding climbing Mera and Island Peak?
Regarding cancellation, if a guest voluntarily or involuntarily terminates/cancels the trip once the trip has started, no refund will be given for missed or unused services of the trip regardless of the reason i.e. sickness, or any other unfortunate events.
25. Count me in for Mera and Island Peak climbing. How do I book?
We’ll be happy to welcome you soon in Nepal and provide you with our expert team to do the magnanimous Mera Peak Climbing in the Himalayas of Nepal.
Please, go through this link for booking procedure.